Creator of fragrances chooses to not wear perfume, ever

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The fact that Francis decided to become a perfumer at the age of 14 is much talked about.
The fact that Francis decided to become a perfumer at the age of 14 is much talked about.

In '93 Francis Kurkdjian created Le Mâle, the first men's fragrance by Gaultier. We take notes. And figure that the owner of a perfume house likes his white shirts, and that classic cream - the one with the blue lid

By Purva Grover

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Published: Thu 11 May 2017, 9:00 PM

Last updated: Thu 11 May 2017, 11:06 PM

On most days, I don't put much thought into the perfume I wear. When in a rush, it's usually what is lying in front on the dresser that determines my fragrance for the day. On other days, I switch between my favourite, regular notes. But things are different today, I am determined to wear the best I have - a fragrance reserved for occasions. I have a date with Francis Kurkdjian. Okay, you can call it an interview. But I'd disagree, for how else do you define an evening spent with a man, who talks all things beautiful including the aroma of nail paints that his mum wore and a passion for ballet dancing. Are you ready to get besotted?
It's said that our lives can be described in aromas - so what are his childhood olfactory memories like? "It's made up of the perfumes my mother wore. She had many. And the smell of nail polish, I would sit next to her when she got a manicure. The smell of food and of outdoor spaces, like cut grass." Does he miss that? No, for nostalgia is not his thing. "It weakens you, even if it is happy memories from the past. I think today and tomorrow is more important than yesterday." However, there does exist a passion and regret from his past life, which he has no qualms talking about. He aspired to be a ballet dancer. "That's the only regret I have in life. I was just not good enough." Yes, humility is another trait of the master perfumer. However, he's still connected to the craft. He mentions Dancer, a mesmerising film on Ukrainian-born ballet dancer Sergei Polunin that he watched on the plane to Dubai. "I plan to open a ballet school in Baghdad." He is visiting the UAE for the launch of his latest creation, Oud Satin Mood, extrait de parfum.
Well, ballet dancing gave way to another unique choice - the fact that Francis decided to become a perfumer at the age of 14 is much talked about. "I read an article in a newspaper. It was about the life of perfumers, their connection with the couture world, the craft, and the process. I thought it was very exciting." How did he convince his parents of his choice? "Fortunately, we (he has two siblings) never had to convince our parents. We were given the freedom to choose." Five years later, he had enrolled in ISIPCA, the international school of perfumery in Versailles, and joined Quest International, a fragrance producer. Alongside, he signed up for a post-graduate programme at the Institut Supérieur de Marketing du Luxe. Three years later, in '93 he created Le Mâle, the first men's fragrance by Jean Paul Gaultier. It's been a journey of laurels, best sellers, collaborations, and of course his own fragrance house - Maison Francis Kurkdjian (2009), with its presence in more than 40 countries. 
"You learn nothing at a school," says he. "Theoretical learning and life can't be equated. Yes, what you do gain is the awareness of how little you know. Schooling comes with a sense of blindness and humility." But there has to be a process of perfume creation, perhaps similar to say, painting a canvas? "It always starts with the name of the perfume. I can't begin until I have a name." Until then, Francis confesses he is miserable. Does the process of creation take weeks, months or years? "Not the latter, I don't have the luxury of time." I'm curious if the winner of the Prix François Coty has a favourite creation? "I haven't created that yet. Once I do, I will retire." And does it have a name? "Yes." But, he's not sharing that. 
His inspiration? "From everywhere. I am like a sponge when it comes to gaining information. I read everything, watch TV (although he doesn't enjoy it) attend exhibitions et al." Men and women - what makes their fragrances vary? "They're the same, essentially. It's like a white shirt looks great on both - yes the fit say, broadness of shoulder may vary." Does this industry too thrive on trends? "It takes 10-15 years for a trend to take shape. But yes, 'sugar' or sweet notes are enjoying the limelight at present."
Before I leave I have to ask what fragrance he's wearing? "I don't wear any perfume. It's my way to switch off from work." That's not possible, I say (almost argue!). Well, so be it his dresser, travelling pouch, bed stand or work desk; it's unlikely you'd find a perfume bottle. "When I was packing for Dubai, I just packed in a tiny, sample bottle that was lying at home." Of course, that leaves little scope for the presence of grooming products or cosmetics, but I take a chance. "The old, regular Nivea cream, the one with the blue lid. It's good enough."
What can I say, artists are whimsical, right? "But, perfumery is not art. While art allows you to stir in a string of emotions, including tears and pain - perfumery exists only to please. It's about creating a thing of beauty, which brings a smile to your face." What is beauty for him? "Our sense of humanity." And what's the first thing he notices in an individual; fragrance you'd assume, but he surprises again. "Eyes," he says, as his own shine. I told you it was a date.
A storyteller, Purva is in search of her favourite word 
purva@khaleejtimes.com
 


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