Shoes are only the accessories. Women are the real highlight

Ten years ago, Gianvito launched his self-named label, which today is a power brand.

You may think the reason for Gianvito Rossi's success is that he was born into it. He is after all, the son of Sergio Rossi, famous for his use of colour and geometry. Sergio Rossi became the hottest footwear fashion brand and in 1999, the Gucci Group bought a majority stake in the label. Initially, Sergio and his son remained with the label, as both had a passion for footwear. "I grew up over the factory, and so have been surrounded by shoes all my life," says Gianvito. But a few years after the Gucci takeover, Gianvito and his father departed from Sergio Rossi. "Working for a major group was not for me or my father," he says simply.
Ten years ago, Gianvito launched his self-named label, which today is a power brand. "I thought of doing other things, but my mind was always on shoes, they had just become a part of me." He started the company not because he needed to but because he felt he had a story to tell. "I was in a good position, so it was not about making money, it was about doing something I liked and believed in." At the time, shoes were going through a stage of being very heavy, be it the platform or the use of embellishment. Gianvito believed in the simple pointed pump stiletto, and that was his first shoe. He called it, 'Gianvito'. The first collection had 70 pieces. "It was simple, elegant and modern and that is what Gianvito Rossi stands for." A media and buyers meet was held at his offices in Milan. Among his first buyers were Barney's New York and Moscow's Tsum. "I think the fact that it was not about profit is what helped. It was authentic." As of last year, the estimated worth of his company is over US$70 million. "We will always be an independent label," he says. Last week, he opened a store in Dubai at Level Shoes (The Dubai Mall) and next on map are Tokyo and Moscow. The global expansion points to the fact that Gianvito has built a fashion brand that is here to stay.
His philosophy when it comes to shoes is simple, "It is an accessory. The woman is the highlight and not the shoe. A shoe is not a piece of jewellery, it should never overwhelm." He believes a woman's relationship with her shoes is very intimate, so shoes must always be of the best quality. Known for high and very thin heels (the average diameter is 9mm), he places emphasis on comfort. "It is not about the width of a heel, it is about where a heel is positioned. To get the balance right." Gianvito has paid a lot of attention to this - proportion and engineering are very important to the designer. Despite the simplicity of the shoes, they are red carpet favourites. Gwyneth Paltrow, Diane Kruger, Sarah Jessica Parker and Kim Kardashian West have all been spotted in a pair Gianvito Rossis. Most recently, Charlize Theron wore a pair of his pumps to the Oscars. One of his popular and classic styles is the Portofino sandal. "It is a very clean shoe. The high back elongates the foot and the thick strap gives it a modern feel." Gianvito has simple advice for anyone attending a red carpet event. "It is not about the dress and the shoes. It is about the woman, and that is what must shine". His plexi pointed pumps give an illusion of almost not being there. For this season, he says the must-have is the Gianvito in red satin, it is a new take on his classic pump. "Wear it in the day, it will give a surprise feel to your outfit," he says. All his materials are sourced in Italy and while Gianvito says he loves Europe, he is now looking to expand his base. After opening stores in America and Europe, it was Hong Kong he looked at next, and then Dubai. The fact that Dubai came before Tokyo and Moscow says a lot. "This is a very important market and if you are in fashion you need to look at the Middle East."
He is not looking to expand into handbags and other accessories. "I believe in sticking to what you know". And since shoes are what he knows, next in line is a men's line. Keeping it pure in design and business is obviously the secret of Gianvito's success.
- sujata@khaleejtimes.com
Sujata is KT's fashion editor. She makes it her business to stay on trend

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