An oasis of calm in the heart of Al Ain

Khaleej Times details a brief history of some of the oldest forts and houses of Al Ain.

For over 7,000 years, eight oases of Al Ain have attracted thousands of traders, passers-by and settlers, making it a centre for agriculture and focus point for travellers.
Once abundant fresh water allowed people to make a living out of date palm farming in the oasis that is now culturally famous for its archaeological sites.
The traditional falaj system - ancient underground irrigation system - would irrigate one oasis at a time. The water came from atop the mountain, up to 30km away, where a series of wells were dug. A network of tunnels was then created to channel the water to the plantations. Each date palm orchard was provided with water for a set amount of time before its channel was "dammed" most likely with stones, metal or clothes, and the water was diverted elsewhere.
Until today, the dates of Al Ain remain among the best in the region. The UAE's blessed tree played a major role in influencing the Emirati architecture.
Traditional houses
Al Ain - the second largest city of Abu Dhabi - has not only been culturally famous for its archaeological sites but also its 19th century forts that bear witness of the history of the families inhabiting the area for centuries.
The first houses built in Abu Dhabi emirate in the pre-oil era were called Al Arish, the traditional summer dwellings. Al Arish was a shelter made of palm tree leaves. It was made of two parts: a) the main area 2x4 metres used for sitting and sleeping; b) a small area, 2x2 metrs used for cooking, storage and rising of animals. The Bedouins considered Al Arish their second home after the tent. These simple, yet highly effective homes were built using the most basic of tools, using only dry palm leaves, palm trunks and rope made from palm trunk fibres. At times, when seeking an audience with the ruler, local men used to build an Arish hut in the courtyard of the fort, as at times he would have to wait for his turn for days.
Traders and caravans of goods would also stop sometimes in the fort or the diwan's courtyard, hence all Al Ain forts have massive inner courtyards, to accommodate all these visitors. "In the first years of his childhood, my grandfather grew up in an Arish house. It was not how you imagine a house to be - one building with different rooms having different purposes," said Mariam Al Harbi, an Al Ain resident.
"It was more like a cluster of single rooms - some intended for living and some intended for storage - that were all enclosed by a tall palm fronds fence for privacy," she said.
"They were all made of palm tree wood and fronds and they had no bathrooms or kitchens since no plumbing or electricity existed in those days. People would get water from a nearby well and they would cook outdoors, on open fire."
A desert oasis rich in potable water and fertile lands had to be protected. Nearly a dozen forts were built in the city by Al Nahyan royal family members.
Geography played a major role for having so many forts. Each of the eight oasis was a village in itself, lying between 10 to 13km from each other, a big distance in those days.
Since Jebel Hafeet, a 1,340 meter-high mountain, on the east of the city provided natural protection from any invader, a series of forts and watch towers were built from the south, in a bow shape.
Among the oldest was Shaikh Ahmad bin Hilal Al Dhaheri's fortified house, dating from the mid 19th century. Still standing today, the house is a rectangular building, surrounded by a high wall with gun openings at regular intervals.
A tower on the northern side and another structure on the south-east corner provided protection for Al Jimi oasis, which is to the west of the house. This was the residence of Shaikh Ahmad, who was the Ruler's Representative for the Eastern Region of Abu Dhabi during the time of Shaikh Zayed bin Khalifa.
A little to the south of Al Jimi Oasis, he also built a watchtower, a 14-metre high structure meant to defend the villages in the area and foil attempts to cut off their water supply.
Most popular Al Ain forts
Perhaps, the most popular of Al Ain's forts remain the Al Ain Palace Museum which is the former residence of the founder of the UAE Shaikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, who went on to become the first president of the United Arab Emirates.
Originally built in 1910 on the western side of the Al Ain Oasis, this was the home of Shaikh Zayed until 1966, during his years as the Ruler's Representative for the Eastern Region.
In 1998 restoration began to transform the palace into a museum, which opened to the public in 2001 with four watchtowers and 37 rooms. They are all set among beautiful terracotta-coloured buildings and courtyards amid gardens of cacti, magnolia trees and date palms.
During his stay here, Shaikh Zayed made his own improvements to the palace. Family quarters, a school room kitchens and store rooms were arranged around separate courts.
Guests from foreign countries were received in a separate meeting room decorated with western style furniture, while the majlis for visitors from the region were designed in the local style.
Some of the added features for the museum include the towers on each side of the main entrance, which reflects the architecture of the desert forts. A Land Rover similar to the one Shaikh Zayed used to drive out into the desert was also placed in the main courtyard of the palace.
Mostly, Shaikh Zayed preferred to meet the tribe leaders in their own dwellings to better understand their needs, but when they did come to the palace, he used to receive them in a large open tent erected in the main courtyard. This is also where meals, Arabic coffee and Bedouin poetry was shared with his special guests.
Qasr Al Muwaiji story
Only weeks ago, one of Al Ain's greatest forts opened to the public as a museum, the historic Qasr Al Muwaiji - birthplace of His Highness Shaikh Khalifa bin Zayed Al Nahyan, President of the UAE. Qasr Al Muwaiji, which protected Al Muwaiji Oasis since the early 1900s, was built by the eldest son of Shaikh Zayed, Shaikh Khalifa bin Zayed bin Khalifa Al Nahyan.
A respected leader, Shaikh Khalifa was nominated as his father's successor in 1909, but he declined the ruling power, preferring to play a significant advisory role from his Al Ain's headquarters.
Following in his father's footsteps, he strengthened the local community by building date palm orchards and Al Muwaiji fort.
His son, Shaikh Mohammed bin Khalifa (1909 - 1979), who inherited Qasr Al Muwaiji, had a daughter, Shaikha Hessa, who married Shaikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan and gave birth to the UAE President, Shaikh Khalifa bin Zayed Nahyan in 1948 right here, at the Muwaiji fort.
"The fort is about 100 years old, but archaeologists found evidence of settlements here dating back to the early 16 century," said Ricardo Benn, project manager for Qasr Al Muwaiji.
Like all of Al Ain's forts, Qasr Al Muwaiji was built with mud bricks and palm tree wood and fronds and like the other cultural sites of the Garden City, it is now protected as a Unesco world heritage site.
silvia@khaleejtimes.com

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• Abu Dhabi