Eat your way through Singapore's Arab Street

The tiny island nation offers a variety of culinary treats that reflects the country's melting pot of cultures. Christina Voskou explores Bugis district, home to Singapore's Muslim Quarter and finds that, while gentrification has made its presence felt, it has remained faithful to its roots

This was my second visit to the Lion City. The first time around, I'd ticked off the usual boxes: the waterfront views, the Raffles Hotel, the Changi Museum, the National Museum, Orchard Road, the incredible Singapore Zoo and Marina Bay Sands. This time, I was keen to pick a part of the city that wasn't overrun with tourists, allowing myself to experience it like a local, while losing myself in the diversity of the city.
I picked Bugis (pronounced Boo-Ghis), near Arab Street. While not far from the modernity of Raffles Place and Marina Bay, it is probably as quaint as Singapore gets. The heart of Bugis is Kampong Glam, which is of historic and cultural importance to Singapore. The Muslim Quarter's centrepiece is the impressive Sultan Mosque. Dating back to 1824, this landmark's original brick structure was torn down to make way for a mosque inspired by Islamic architecture with Classical, Persian, Moorish and Turkish elements. What we see today was completed in 1932.  
Originally a fishing village, Kampong Glam was allocated to the Malay community by Sir Stamford Raffles in 1822 and the story of this historic district is showcased at the Malay Heritage Centre. The Malay-Arab influence is evident also in the streets which are often named after places in the Muslim world, such as Kandahar, Muscat, and Bussorah to name a few.
This district is filled with an endless choice of hole-in-the-wall eateries, shops and cafes. Some of them are institutions that date back decades, while others, staffed by bearded and tattooed hipsters, make it apparent the area isn't immune to gentrification. All you need is some spending money because if you find yourself here, you will not be able to resist eating your way through.  
One of those institutions is Zam Zam, which has been dishing out South- and South-East Asian staples for over a century. Located across the street from Sultan Mosque, it is particularly known for something called murtabak or martabak, commonly found in Asia and the Middle East. This scrumptious pancake is stuffed with meat, onions and eggs, wrapped, and then fried.
 Another institution is Bumbu, which serves up Thai, Indonesian and Peranakan (descendants of Chinese immigrants to the Malay Archipelago) cuisine. A living memorial to the region's culinary history, with its collection of antiques and photographs, it dishes out classics such as fried fish with chili and Beef Rendang.  
Not too far away, a food lover's treasure, the popular Kampong Glam Café, offers very good Malay and Indonesian food at a great price. With specialties like Soto Ayam (spicy chicken soup), Mee Rebus (egg noodles in a spicy gravy), Nasi Lemak (rice dish in coconut milk), Roti Kirai (snack pancake) and more, this place is a local favourite and getting a table can prove a challenge at all hours of the day.
Then come the more recent entrants to the district's culinary scene: if you happen to be in the mood for some Southern-style cuisine, The Beast is known for its crispy fried chicken and freshly baked cornbread. The Ramen Stall is a Japanese restaurant and one of the few halal Ramen restaurants in the country. Aside from the usual Sushi, Sashimi and Yakitori, this place is known for specialties like cola wings, grilled edamame and 'Volcano Ramen'.  
Just past Haji Lane, on North Bridge Road, you can find I am - a little Dutch-inspired café that serves mostly Western food, some of it with a local twist. The soft-shell crab burger is highly recommended, but you can also choose from a great variety of other sandwiches or their signature Fish & Chips.  
If you can't make up your mind about which cuisine to try, pay a visit to The Hangar, another popular place on Arab Street. Described as "an institution of good times, great coffee and a whole lotta love", this Aussie-inspired coffee spot serves more than just a great cup of joe. The options vary from Japanese, Thai, Italian, Spanish, Australian, Cuban, Greek and Mexican, and a long list of specialty sandwiches.  
Two other dining spots at the Aliwal Arts Centre are a good option for a meal or a quick coffee. Colourful and fun, both spaces have an artistic ambience. Kaw Kaw SG is a place where local artists can showcase their work, and it often hosts musicians. Its neighbour Eat Play Love has a more family-friendly approach with a crafting corner for kids. The menu focuses on Western and Thai dishes but there are plenty of good options to leave you and your little ones satisfied.  
Fika Swedish Café & Bistro is another great place for both coffee and food. It, too, offers a range of soups, sandwiches and hot dishes. Try the Swedish meatballs, the herb-crusted salmon or share the smörgåsbord. If not a meal, try Fika for dessert, as they have a handful of interesting options like Swedish salted caramel waffles or Kladdkaka, a traditional Swedish brownie.   
Speaking of desserts, Brother Bird serves up soft serve ice cream with a twist and is a perfect pick-me-up after exploring the district. It serves flavours such as winter melon, avocado and matcha. Their signature item is a soft serve of cookie butter, on a crisp, caramelised Mochi doughnut. Try to say "No" to that!
From Malay and Indian to Japanese and Southern comfort food, Bugis packs in something for everyone. The cooking and its quaint streets make it a great place for a wander - you never know what you will discover around the corner.  
wknd@khaleejtimes.com