'In Mexico, anything that crawls or flies goes into the casserole'

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In Mexico, anything that crawls or flies goes into the casserole

Table talk with Manuel Antonio, Head Chef, ZOCO, Al Habtoor City, Dubai

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Published: Fri 17 Aug 2018, 12:00 AM

Last updated: Thu 23 Aug 2018, 9:21 AM

Your favourite memory of food.
I remember sitting at my grandparents' table, sharing sweet chipotle chillies, fresh avocado and michas (handmade bread) with my family. Helping my father clean the langostinos (squat lobster) to make some amazing "caldo de camaron" (shrimp curry). Helping my mother bake cakes or bread. Oh, and travelling around the world, making all the friends that I have - thanks to all my cooking. These are memories I'll never forget.
What's the most challenging part of your job?
I think it's leaving all the people that you love behind, because you want to follow your dream.
Do you have a personal mantra or motto that drives the way you cook food?
Cook well, no matter who you are cooking for. I will always give my best for people to enjoy what I've prepared.
If you could cook for a high-profile personality, who would it be and what would you serve them?
I would like to cook for His Highness Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, Vice-President and Prime Minister of the UAE and Ruler of Dubai, and make a real Mexican "carne asada" or Mexican BBQ for him. It would have a lot of meat choices grilled on wood and a variety of garnishes - such as refried beans, salsa, guacamole, tortillas, radish, fresh and grilled cheese, potatoes etc.
How often do you eat out? Do you have any favourite places around town?
Maybe twice a week. I tend to visit a restaurant for particular dishes they prepar. For example, the hummus with beef and the bread at Abd El Wahab, Souk Al Bahar; the meat and melon bruschetta at Don Corleone in Al Safa; the pizza with burrata at Pizza Rustica in Business Bay - and, of course, the tacos and beans at ZOCO.
After cooking all day, do you cook for yourself at home too?
Sometimes, but I cook more when I go to my friends' places so we can enjoy the food together. It doesn't matter if it's also my day job and they don't want me to cook, because it's not a 'job' to me.
You're asked to invent an unusual dish - what would it be?
I've done this many times, because I'm always looking for new flavours and [gastronomic] adventures. Before I did a wasp sauce in Mexico, I made cobra tacos in Indonesia. Here, perhaps, I could try something with camel meat, because I haven't tried that yet! For sure, something nice will come of it. In Mexico, we have a saying that goes: "Everything that crawls, walks, runs and flies goes for the casserole."
Who do you admire most in the culinary world, and why?
I don't have a favourite chef, but respect all chefs. I've always admired my ancestors' cuisine, because of which Mexico was appointed by UNESCO as an intangible cultural heritage of humanity. This is all thanks to the Olmecs for the cacao, the Toltecas for the pulque, and the Quetzalcoatl for the corn.
Favourite comfort food?
Vanilla ice cream.
Ingredients or dishes you can't stand, and why.
Cactus (also known as nopal). It is usually served with eggs for breakfast, and I've cooked it several times, but don't like the taste or texture... I also don't like cooking eel, as the meat is too rough and the taste is too strong.
If you could choose a last meal, what would it be?
Memela (a big, handmade tortilla with beans and red sauce), quesillo (cheese from Oaxaca), carne de chinameca (smoked meat), longaniza, cream, avocado, plantain, and boiled egg.
Your favourite culinary destination, and why?
Mexico, for sure! Trust me, you can find good food everywhere, any time, there. We are lucky to have so many different ingredients of the best quality. Plus, our people are experts in preparing some of the most delicious foods in the world: tacos, tostadas, garnachas, tortas, chalupas, chiles en nogada, mole, picadas, gorditas, salbutes, sopes, huaraches, elotes, esquites, enchiladas, quesadillas, carnitas, birria. I could go on and on.
- Staff reporter


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