Tapping all the right notes

With its gargantuan portions and laid-back ambience, The Tap House proves to be a worthy addition to Palm Jumeirah's up-and-coming food scene

If anyone had told me, years ago, that Palm Jumeirah would soon become one of Dubai's hottest eating scenes, I wouldn't have believed them. Not because there's a dearth of fine eateries over at The Palm - it's just one of those places we expect to come with a certain level of pretentiousness. Well, with a burst of more casual joints opening last year - as well as seven new restaurants stretching across Club Vista Mare - it's official: The Palm is now the perfect place to kick back, enjoy seriously good food and watch the waves.
We decided to check out The Tap House, one of the aforementioned seven restaurants at Club Vista Mare, and found it with ease, nestled between restaurants Simply Italian and Abyat. The indoor seating area is impressive - very industrial-chic, with exposed brick walls, long wooden tables (perfect for large parties) and plenty of golden lighting. The outdoor seating area, which gives you views of the beach and a bit of Dubai's skyline, is even better - although it remains to be seen whether it will be open all year round. The weather was chilly and the staff had thought ahead, placing patio heaters at strategic areas, the flames throwing amber lights and shadows all around. Needless to say, the ambience worked well, and we weren't surprised that the place was packed, despite the next day being a workday.

The Tap House specialises in American and European food, with a selection of starters, salads, burgers and grills. We decided to start with their Socialising Platter, comprising favourites from the starters section. Our table was soon laden with buckets of Parmesan & Truffle Chips, Crispy Calamari and Chicken Wings. The wings were well-cooked and slathered with barbecue sauce, but didn't exactly blow the mind. The chips, on the other hand, were perfectly crisp, the truffle oil complementing the parmesan. The calamari were crispy and well-salted, earning a thumbs-up as well. We were off to a good start.
Next up were the mains. Our waiter (as well as a well-intentioned chalkboard inside the restaurant) recommended their 9 Hrs Slow Cooked Orange Glazed Back Ribs and my plus one didn't need to look at anything else on the menu. I, however, was torn between too many good choices - the Southern Fried Chicken & Waffle or the Road House Melt? Decisions, decisions. I finally settled on the Heisenburger which came much-recommended.
My plus one's ribs came served over a bed of rosemary baby potatoes and bathed with a sauce so dark it seemed almost black. When my main course arrived though, it earned a gasp. The burger was ginormous, bigger than my head, let alone my mouth, and topped with a series of onion rings. Surely, this must be the Burj Khalifa of burgers? As I struggled with my dish, my companion offered me a bite of his ribs; it looked like the nine hours of cooking had worked its magic on the meat, which fell right off the bone. So very succulent.
My Burj Khalifa-esque burger, on the other hand, had started to resemble the Leaning Tower of Pisa. A few bites in and the bread split open. I didn't mind too much because the taste was impeccable - the onion rings hidden within made it crunchy, while the pineapple relish gave it a sweeter tinge. However, a word of caution: if you want to finish the burger, it would be wise to starve yourself beforehand.
I was keen on dessert right from the start after spotting Chocolate Bacon Rashers with Vanilla Ice Cream on the menu. And, yes, it's exactly what it sounds like - blissful strips of milk chocolate hiding salty bits of beef bacon within. Maybe this is not a combination for everyone, but it would be a waste not to try it. My plus one ordered the Cheeton Mess, and a huge meringue arrived on our table, hiding raspberry cheesecake and cream within. It was faultless, but I couldn't help but go back to the bacon-chocolate combination.
As a newcomer, The Tap House seems to tick all the right boxes. The ambience is relaxed, the service friendly, the price reasonable and the food surprisingly inventive. If that isn't a sign to let go of preconceived notions and get on with the Palm way of life, I don't know what is.
janice@khaleejtimes.com

• Food and Dining