• Home

Forte of forts

Standing next to the Betwa river in central India, the serenely beautiful town of Orchha rises above the lush green forests of the Tikamgarh district of India’s greenest state, Madhya Pradesh, like a jewel wrapped in history, legend and stunning architecture.

There is none of the commercial cacophony of big metros but Orchha has a robust liveliness of its own. It is a historical place but there is no overpowering touristy feel of a Jaipur or an Agra.

The long sinewy hands of patented, plasticy development have not reached here yet. Time has rested lightly on this sleepy little town enabling it to retain its mystique and authenticity. And thank God for that!

Orchha was founded by a Rajput Bundela king, Raja Rudra Pratap Singh in 1531. His dynasty was characterised by blood, war and sacrifice; the name itself means ‘the offerers of drops of blood’ for honour. The Bundelas ruled over the central part of India from their capital Orchha between 1531 and 1783. The name is derived from Urchha; in the local Bundelkhandi language, it means to rise and charge, a command often given to hunter dogs. It is believed that when King Rudra Pratap Singh shifted his capital here, he consulted a holy man to give the city a suitable name. The saint told him that when he wakes up the next morning, whatever word he utters first should be the most auspicious name for his capital. As King Rudra got up he saw a wild boar and he immediatley urged his hunter dogs, ‘Urchha, urchha’. Thus the name was coined.

We begin exploring the town at the focal point, the Orchha Fort — a set of separate but interconnected palaces and temples set in an open quadrangle within the imposing fort complex.

Jahangir Mahal is the most stunning part of Orchha fort. Legend has it that Raja Bir Deo I was a contemporary of Jahangir, also known as Salim. Salim had fallen in love with Anarkali and had alienated himself from his father, the great Emperor Akbar. Akbar had instructed his military commander Abul Fazl to bring his son back to him. King Bir Singh Deo chose to support 
Salim, and killed Abul Fazl, thus indebting Jahangir.

When Jahangir became emperor, he promised to visit Orchha as a mark of respect. Jahangir Mahal was built by Bir Singh Deo to commemorate the occasion. The structure — a wonderful amalgamation of Mughal, Rajput and Oriental influences — took 22 years to make.

Jahangir stayed here for just one night as he found the doors a bit too low for his comfort. Our guide informed that Bir Deo had done it on purpose to ensure that Jahangir, the mighty Emperor, had to bend every time he crosses a door, thus reminding him of his indebtedness to the Bundelas.

Raja Mahal, situated to the right of the quadrangle, was built by Madhukar Shah, the deeply religious predecessor of Bir Deo. The plain exteriors give way to interiors with boldly colourful murals that are an amalgamation of Mughal (depicting floral motifs) and Rajput themes (depicting Rajput princesses waiting for their warrior husbands and sons).

To the left of this, is the intriguing feminine Rai Praveen Mahal. Poetess and musician, Rai Praveen was the beautiful paramour of Raja Indrajit Singh. She was sent to Agra on the orders of Emperor Akbar, who was captivated by her. She so impressed the Emperor with the purity of her love for Indramani that he sent her back to Orchha. The palace built for her is a low, two storied structure, designed to match the height of the trees in the surrounding area that has the beautifully lansdcaped gardens of Anand Mahal, with its octagonal flower beds and elaborate water supply system. The entire complex has stunning evidence of a well-planned rain harvesting system in place.

Later, we visit Sunder Mahal, which is a small palace and a place of pilgrimage for Muslims. Dhurjaban, son of Jhujhar, embraced Islam when he wed a Muslim girl at Delhi. He spent the latter part of his life in prayer and meditation, and came to be revered as a saint.

As the sun sets and spreads its molten gold on this august land, we reach the famous Chhatris of Orchha. These are fourteen cenotaphs or chhatris built as memorials to the rulers of Orchha, grouped along the Kanchana ghat of Betwa. One can see rows of pale brown domes and spires inside a compound on the banks of Betwa river. The setting sun bestows a haloed sheen.

Another beautiful experience is to view these cenotaphs from the other side of the Betwa. As the river reflects the elegant shapes, it is a moment of truth to view the grandeur of these mighty cenotaphs fade like their faint mirror images, as if done in water colours, reinstating the inevitability that all things will come to an end.

news@khaleejtimes.com