Nouveau Table

Filling Gordon Ramsay’s shoes is not an easy task, not in anyone’s books. But that’s exactly what chefs Scott Price and Nick Alvis have undertaken at Table 9, converting Ramsay’s Verre into their own outlet, named after Verre’s most popular table, the chef’s table, aka Table 9.

If anyone is best placed to fill Ramsay’s shoes then it’s Scott and Nick, both Ramsay protégés, both highly skilled chefs and long-time Dubai residents. They know the local market inside out, and have created Table 9 to suit that market, meaning diners now get a more approachable menu, with subtle hints of a more relaxed attitude, from the table dressing to the staff, most of whom worked under Ramsay.

The new menu is like nothing else seen in Dubai. Its simplicity is its beauty. Diners are offered two lists of dishes, one list costing Dh70, another costing Dh100, with the obvious difference being the pricier dishes feature more expensive ingredients and are slightly closer to main courses. But neither list is ‘starters’ or ‘mains’; this is concept dining, closer to Spanish tapas, but also nothing like it. Table 9 serves sharing plates that are taster dishes, which will excite the palate, rather than overload the stomach. This is dining for those fed up with vast platters of chips, rice and mash. It is light, accessible, fun and simple. It’s how dining should be — even matched with accessible pricing.

The shift from Verre’s formal menu to Table 9’s relaxed, tastier menu is vast, but what hasn’t changed is most of the restaurant’s décor. Plans, I’m told, are underway to give Table 9 its own style, but I hope they don’t overspend. Matching the elegant simplicity of the new menu could be achieved in simple, affordable ways; however they do it, something fresh is needed soon.

Head to Table 9 for a unique menu brought to you by passionate chefs bravely stepping out from the long shadow of their infamous teacher. Their next moves will be watched with great interest.

wknd@khaleejtimes.com

In seven words: Fresh new menu refreshes Dubai’s dining scene

What we liked: The style of the new menu

What we didn’t like: Much of décor remains unchanged

Restaurant best for: Friends, foodies and groups at the chef’s table

Cost for two: Dh 400 (approx., without drinks)

Did you know: Scott Price was named ‘Chef of the Year’ at the What’s On Awards (Dubai) 2010

Contact: Table 9, Hilton Dubai Creek, Dubai, 
04-2271111