Chef Valentine Warner brings his skills to Dubai

Chef Valentine Warner feels outdoors is as important as indoors in the kitchen

A thoroughly entertaining interview with the chef who is making his debut at Taste of Dubai

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By Ambica Sachin


Published: Tue 6 Mar 2018, 4:00 PM

Last updated: Sat 10 Mar 2018, 1:40 PM

You think you've heard of them all or at least seen them on the telly or read about them; and then boom, all of a sudden you are made aware of a chef whose individuality is so strong, you are forced to sit up and take note. Valentine Warner is one such persona. A trained portrait painter who lay down his brush to pick up the ladle, Warner made his name on the BBC Show What to Eat Now, based on his book of the same name. Most likely to be found holding up a fishing rod, when not in the kitchen, he is a chef who strongly believes in getting back to basics when it comes to cooking - requiring a knowledge of where your food comes from - basically bringing the outdoors to the dining table. Without much further ado, here's Warner:
It's your first time at Taste of Dubai. What are you looking forward to the most in the city? 
I've never been so I am flying blind. I know it as a city of high buildings and that my dear friend Nathan Outlaw has opened a restaurant there. That is about it. Oh and I hear there is good sea fishing to be had. I am looking forward to Taste of Dubai and eating local dishes and I'll also try out the best restaurants in Dubai at Taste, I think I'm in for a treat.
How would you describe your food philosophy? 
Simple is my way, international grandmother is my style. I'm far more likely to be discussing an octopus recipe with a Greek widow than talking molecular gastronomy with Heston Blumenthal. I'm likely to be cooking over charcoal and unlikely to be anywhere near a sous-vide bath.
I like to understand a given place to find out what ingredients it may be famous for, what can be found in the markets, what the local history is and take it from there really. I have a huge love of nature, which in turn has a huge influence on how I cook. I fish, I hunt, I pick plants from the hedgerows. Outdoors is as important as indoors in the kitchen. Little is needed to make good food, more than an understanding of ingredients.
What's the best and worst thing about being a 'celebrity chef' in today's world? 
To cook is a joy. It is second nature. "Celebrity" means little to me but for wonderful opportunities to be involved in things I might not otherwise have been asked to or work with people I wouldn't otherwise have met. It has enabled me to further my understanding of ideas or pursuits I'm already interested in or have become interested in.
One of the worst things in today's world is the obsession with "celebrity" for celebrity's sake. I saw some kids being interviewed. Many of them when asked what they wanted to be said, "A celebrity", but didn't seem to have any understanding for what.
The other day I typed in the word heather into the Internet search bar whilst trying to show someone how important this flowering plant is to the Scottish moorland. I got hundreds of pictures of Heather Graham and one of the heather plant. The world seems pretty bonkers right now. The plant is far more important. V.I.Plant!
How would you define yourself in the context of your profession/passion? Or in other words how would you best describe yourself to an audience you are hoping to impress? 
I wouldn't describe myself to the audience; I'd be getting on with what I was there to do. In short, I like to bring story-telling to food, nature and cooking.
What's the one bit of advice you wish you were given when starting out in the food industry - which you would like to pass on to youngsters hoping to make a mark in the industry? 
Try and directly approach the chefs you want to work for. Chances are there might be a job as kitchens reshuffle often. The worst you can be told is "No". Next best: "Come back in a few months". Best: "Sure, you start on Monday". Aim high as there is nothing better than working for those you admire. If you don't ask, you don't get. Remember the chefs may appreciate your forwardness too.
Nothing like cooking breakfasts in a hotel to put you off cooking. Stay still for a while. There are far too many young chefs who think they are ready to go it alone yet know virtually nothing. Read old and provincial cookbooks and natural history books as well as modern cookbooks. Above all... Listen!
What can fans expect from you at Taste of Dubai? 
I will be cooking 3 or 4 fish dishes with the use of different herbs and spices. I don't cook one plate over 40 minutes as I get bored and I imagine the public does too. It's a good way to learn quick and easy recipes with a handful of ingredients.
What's the one dish you can never have enough of? 
Plateau des fruites de mer, it's a platter of raw shellfish on a bed of ice. I can eat shellfish forever with good bread and proper mayonnaise.
An ingredient you never ever want to cook with? 
White chocolate. I detest it.
Hollywood movies give the impression chefs are temperamental creatures - banging their pots and pans about, shouting at their kitchen staff, cooking up a storm in the kitchen basically. Your thoughts on this?Chefs are temperamental. They are constantly under scrutiny and available for criticism. They stay up late and are born of a hyper nature best suited for standing up all day. They ingest life and drink coffee when it gets tiring. Chefs have many appetites and those with many appetites are often moody - whatever career they pursue.
However I have never ever worked for a nasty, shouty or bullying chef. It is a terrible way to learn anything and more for kitchens with huge brigades that need running like the military.
I have only worked in small kitchens for amazing chefs such as Alistair Little. Kind geniuses in the kitchen. It does however get tiring, cheffing is hard work. ... my work life is hectic as I do a few different things.
If I feel overwhelmed, I head into the countryside, into nature, my default, our default setting and go fishing. It helps me gather my thoughts and reset my thinking.
 
Taste of Dubai takes place at Dubai Media City Amphitheatre on March 8,9,10
ambica@khaleejtimes.com

Ambica Sachin


Published: Tue 6 Mar 2018, 4:00 PM

Last updated: Sat 10 Mar 2018, 1:40 PM

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