Dinner at the Darbar: Indian chef brings travelling culinary show to Dubai

Eminent Indian chef, food historian, restaurateur, and food writer Osama Jalali is hosting his signature “Dinner at the Darbar” from September 23 to October 14 at Golden Fork, the UAE’s homegrown restaurant chain, where he is showcasing a curated menu of home-style food and heirloom recipes of Old Delhi and his native Rampur in Uttar Pradesh.

Osama is renowned for reviving “Lost Recipes of India’’, and perfecting forgotten flavours. Diners can indulge in classic starters such as Dilli Nihari, Anjeer Mewe ke Kebab, Chitta Murgh Tikka Makhni and Ghilafi Seekh among others. Signature dishes from the main course include Dilli Nihari and Hari Mirch Qeema in the non-vegetarian offering, and Ballimaran Chana Dal, Mughlai Gobi Mussalam among others in the vegetarian section. Shahi Chawalon ka Zarda, Siwai ka Muzafar, and Shahi Tukda will round off a delectable meal.

“Travel back in time to an era of royal kitchens, where preparing food was a treasured art and each meal was fit for a king! We’re proud to partner with Chef Osama’s and bring his culinary prowess and exemplary menu to life across Golden Fork,” said Chef Abu Sultan, Executive Chef, Golden Fork Restaurants.

“As a 45-year-old brand here in the UAE, we understand the significance and importance of tradition and chef Osama is a fine example of someone who preserves that when it comes to the culinary arts,” he added.

Osama’s affair with food dates to his childhood, most of which he spent amidst the royal khansamas (cooks) of Delhi and Rampur gharana. His mother, Nazish Jalali, who hails from the princely estate of Rampur, collected rare recipes during the years she spent in the Walled City, and Osama has been the natural inheritor of this culinary legacy.

wknd. spoke with Osama ahead of his trip to the UAE.

Edited excerpts from the interview:

You’re a reputed food writer, historian, restaurateur, food festival curator and a passionate Masterchef. How did you veer towards culinary trends, despite your non-hospitality background?

I started my career as a food writer, which gave me the opportunity to travel across the country. During this time, I wrote more than 2,000 food reviews. I recall a visit to a restaurant where my daughter and I were served a samosa chaat with chutney in foam form. Even the dessert was a deconstructed phirni. I realised that it was now trendy to serve modern Indian cuisine or progressive Indian cuisine. Molecular gastronomy was being touted as the way forward and because of this our traditional dishes and staples were being presented in new forms. It became clear to me that reviving regional recipes was imperative to preserve our rich culinary heritage. I roped my mother and wife into this endeavour and together we scoured libraries to find recipes in languages like Persian. We translated them and added modern measurements (tola to teaspoon). We interviewed old ladies who were reluctant at first to share their family recipes but eventually understood the importance of our cause. I created a Facebook group called Lost Recipes of India, which is now arguably the largest social media group dedicated to this subject. Soon, I started getting invited to curate food festivals both in India and abroad where I cook the recipes and present them on a more global platform.

Recount your formative years in old Delhi and your roots in Rampur in Uttar Pradesh, whose founders were Rohilla Pathans?