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Two UAE residents undertake 13,000km journey to India through Central Asia
‘We’ve seen the world through a cracked windshield and every scratch tells a story’
Rajith (L) and Binish (R). Photos: Supplied
Many passionate travellers and adventure enthusiasts might envy UAE residents Rajith Kizhakkekara Neelancheri and his friend Binish Krishnan as they experience the rare thrill of having breakfast in Kazakhstan and ending their day in China — all within just 24 hours.
The duo, fuelled by a shared love for adventure, meticulously planned their 13,000km route through Iran, Central Asia (Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, and from Kazakhstan), and the mountainous terrains of Nepal before they finally reached the south Indian state of Kerala in around 40 days.
Marathon drive
The journey began on August 26 from Abu Shagara, with the towering skyscrapers of Dubai receding in the rearview mirror as they geared up to embrace the mysteries ahead.
In Tibet
Loaded with 20-25 cans of Kerala-style ready-made food curries, maps, medicines, car tools and repair kits and boundless enthusiasm, the two set off in their Toyota 4Runner, with the roar of the engine signalling the beginning of an unforgettable adventure.
"This idea struck me in 2019. My friend wanted to do something that people don't normally do. I am a hiker, and my friend is an off-roader. However, driving through different countries meant a lot of paperwork and legwork, especially when procuring visas. We made several calls to embassies asking for details. In February, we started this process and received all our visas by the end of July. In some countries, it was not only visas, but we required entry permits for the car and a GBAO permit in Tajikistan," said Rajith.
The 31-year-old said they required this special permit to travel to the Pamir mountains, the highway, and the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region (GBAO).
In Kazakhstan
“Since part of the Pamir highway runs along the border with Afghanistan, this security measure is necessary and requires these additional papers as the army controls the area. Along the way there, we crossed around ten checkpoints where we had to submit all our documents,” he added.
The pair drove continuously throughout the day, ensuring they stopped at night to rest either at hotels or by camping in suitable locations.
Notably, last June, the friends also embarked on a road trip through Saudi Arabia, Bahrain, and Qatar before deciding to embark on this journey. “We returned to the UAE within 48 hours after visiting all these countries,” added Rajith, a production manager at a printing press in Sharjah.
Almaty, Kazakhstan
Ancient landscapes in Iran
When they entered Iran, their first stop, Rajith and Binish, were greeted by the warmth of the locals, the haunting beauty of the ancient landscapes, and the bustling markets of the cities.
Binish, who runs his own business in Dubai, said, "We spent three days exploring historical sites, indulging in Persian cuisine, and marvelling at the architectural wonders of Iran. Then, we crossed into Turkmenistan, and the desert gave way to vast stretches of barren land. Turkmenistan was not a part of the original trip, but we included it to see the 'Darvaza gas crater,' a burning natural gas field that Soviet engineers drilled in 1971. You can smell gas when you enter the place. It's a geological marvel."
Following this vacation, the towering peaks of Uzbekistan's mountains emerged in the distance, beckoning them towards Samarkand, a city famed for its role in the ancient Silk Road.
"The blue-tiled mosques were a marvel with the intricately designed building," added the 40-year-old.
Turkmenistan, door to hell darvaza gas crater
Highest and most dangerous roads
The duo then went to Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan, where they were welcomed with rugged landscapes, high-altitude passes, and winding roads. They spent two days navigating the Pamir Highway, one of the world's highest and most dangerous roads.
The steep mountain passes, and hairpin bends tested their driving skills to the limit. There were moments when the sheer cliffs falling away from the side of the road seemed too perilous, but they pressed on.
At an altitude of 4600+ mtr above sea level in Pami Highways
However, no adventure is complete without some challenges that often add character to a journey.
“We had a tyre puncture on the Pamir highway, which is acclaimed as the world's second highest altitude international highway. Somehow, we managed to navigate that,” said Binish.
Rajith in Kyrgyzstan
Cracked windshield
While driving through Turkmenistan, their voyage experienced another curve ball. A stone suddenly hit their car, cracking their windscreen.
"The crack spread across the glass like a spider's web. Although it didn't shatter, it hindered our visibility as it continued to grow. We've seen the world through a cracked windshield and every scratch tells a story. Eventually, we reached Uzbekistan, where we found a local mechanic who temporarily patched the damaged area."
Kazakhstan provided a welcome respite after the harrowing mountain roads. They spent three days there, allowing themselves to recover from the intensity of the previous days.
Binish
Talking about the rapidly changing landscape, Binish added, “Crossing into China was an experience in itself.”
He said, “When we were crossing through China on September 11, we were initially treated to the beauty of the mountains, but, in no time, we saw the landscape change into lofty sand hills. We followed a local and did dune bashing in the Gobi desert. We were in Tibet by evening, with its towering peaks and the Himalayan range.”
“The mountain passes of China were both exhilarating and terrifying, but the sight of Everest looming in the distance left us breathless,” added Rijith.
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