'The flavours should speak for themselves': Colin Clague

Executive chef of Ruya on his kitchen secrets

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Published: Fri 12 Oct 2018, 12:00 AM

Last updated: Fri 12 Oct 2018, 2:00 AM

Your favourite memory of food.
When I was about 12, my aunt and uncle took me to a very swanky restaurant on the Isle of Man. The people on the next table were seriously posh, talking about what they ate here, on the QE2 (a floating hotel, etc. I had just started a cookery course at school, so I thought I would give them my pennies worth, and loudly asked my cousin if she had enjoyed the ragout of liver we had at the Concord! Never heard a peep out of them for the rest of the night, but it was the last time my aunt took me out for dinner!
What's the most challenging part of your job?
It's probably the hours, spending little time with family and generally missing out on various social occasions - your social life takes a big hit when you're a chef.
Do you have a personal mantra or motto that drives the way you cook food?
Keep it simple and let the flavours speak for themselves.
If you could cook for a high-profile personality, who would it be and what would you serve them?
I've been very lucky and have cooked for most of my heroes - from Nelson Mandela to Mikhail Gorbachev. However, still on my list are Barack Obama, Paul Weller and Richard Dawkins. I'm sure I could chat with them for hours, and serve them what I'm serving everyone now - the food from Turkey is good enough for anyone.
How often do you eat out? What's your favourite place around town?
Chances are I'm at work either here or in London, but if it's a family treat, it will be either La Petite Maison or Zuma. But I'm just as happy to take the kids to Nando's or a curry place in Karama. It's about spending time with family.
After cooking all day, do you cook for yourself at home too?
After the hours we do, not a chance! It's just a shower and then some cheese to relax. They say you shouldn't eat cheese before you sleep as it will give you nightmares, but exhaustion solves that problem.
You're asked to invent an unusual dish - what would it be?
At Ruya, any new dish has to get past the founder Rasim Bey, and what he doesn't know about Turkish food isn't worth knowing. Quite often, he will pass me a recipe that he would like to see on the menu. The first time I saw the keskek or kuymak, I was pulling out what little hair I have left, wondering how I was going to put a barley porridge and a cheese fondue on the menu... but where there is a will, there is a way.
Who do you admire most in the culinary world, and why?
Everybody! It's a very hard industry, and to survive in this game takes hard work and dedication. I have worked with some legends - the likes of Rainer Becker, Michael Caines (who lost an arm and retrained using his other hand to become one of the best chefs in the country!) and Jason Atherton stand out. But it's the chefs who might not have made it - who have battled with addictions or depression - that need the admi support of the cooking community. We all know chefs who have burnt out.
Favourite comfort food?
British cheese. I have to stress the British part as I'm not a huge fan of the European types. Give me a good Yarg, Colston Bassett or vintage cheddar anyday.
One ingredient you can't stand, and why.
Coffee! I can't stand the taste or smell. I'm a Barry's Tea sort of bloke
If you could choose a last meal, what would it be?
Would depend on the mood - whether I was okay having a last meal or if it came as a bit of a shock! It could be anything from a fantastic tagine to great Japanese.
Your favourite culinary destination, and why?
There are so many places, but I would probably say Japan. I love the food and the culture. A trip to Japan is so magical, it's really hard to take it all in.
Where can we find you, when not in the kitchen?
With the family, watching a film, eating out and generally just chilling.
- Staff Reporter

Published: Fri 12 Oct 2018, 12:00 AM

Last updated: Fri 12 Oct 2018, 2:00 AM

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