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Emirati Designers - an élan of the times

A look at Emirati designers' drive for creativity in contemporary design that transcends entrepreneurial expressions.

Carrying the torch forward into the 21st century is a new generation of Emirati designers currently making waves in the design world with an eye for detail and passion for culture. The immense pride, prestige and deep love is evident in the personal attention they give to their work.
Platforms such as Design Days Dubai have substantiated the UAE's scope for producing exceptional talent that encourage designers to make their mark on the world of design. Melissa Randhawa compiles their drive for creativity in contemporary design that transcends entrepreneurial expressions. 
Combining tradition with modernity
Shaikha Hind bint Majed Al Qassimi lets the love and pride she feels for her Emirati heritage shine through in her artful porcelain designs.
My love of porcelain which stemmed from my early childhood has developed into artistic works that fuse traditional Emirati elements with contemporary designs. Early sketches on porcelain originally intended for me and my family flourished into the business that I have today.
The pride I feel in being an Emirati and the admiration and love I have for the culture and past of the UAE was the inspiration behind Designed by Hind. I wanted to create contemporary designs without letting go of that immense heritage and the result is a combination of traditional and modern.
This is shown in the Bidwa coffee and tea set collection created in collaboration with Sharjah-based Irthi Contemporary Crafts Council - a part of NAMA Women Advancement Establishment - which draws inspiration and patterns from the traditional craft of talli that traditionally adorned Emirati women's clothes. This handwoven braid created by the Bidwa artisans also features on the dallah (traditional Arabic coffee pot) and bowl as limited-edition pieces.
From the reception, feedback and demand for the collections I believe that the heritage aspect of the work plays an enormous part in its attraction. For me, Designed by Hind celebrates the essence of traditional Emirati crafts on a local and international level. For a global audience, my collections represent an introduction into the beauty of Emirati and Arabian design, and the value it brings to such an internationally diverse art scene.
Designed by Hind recently showcased its Al Nad tableware collection at luxury home and lifestyle retailer, Tanagra, in Mall of the Emirates, in our first collaboration with the prestigious porcelain manufacturer, Bernardaud. Al Nad constituted Tanagra's first exclusive collection designed by a GCC national. You can also find some of my collections at Bits and Pieces Abu Dhabi and the Louvre Abu Dhabi.
In July this year, Designed by Hind was featured at luxury London department store, Fenwick of Bond Street, in a collaboration held by Irthi Contemporary Crafts Council, which was a wonderful way to reach a new international audience. Having gained a large following across the GCC region, Designed by Hind continues to expand globally by participating in international exhibitions and collaborations.
Right foot forward

Sultan Al Darmaki is proud to put his Emirati family name Darmaki on his exclusive brand of footwear - a name proudly exhibited since 2011 at the Victor and Albert Museum in London. He expresses how thankful he is to the UAE, and to its talented designers who have since become even more inspired to follow their passions.
Even though I live in London, I am ever grateful for the way in which the UAE has shaped me to match up to our country's great leadership and magnificent transformation from desert to sophisticated urban cities.
I consider myself to represent the first generation of designers who left the UAE to become an international player and a local player in the global market. Of course, coming from one of the tribal families of Al Ain, I had faced challenges and struggles to break the mould. However, my late father said to always do whatever you put your heart to and I am following his lead on that.
The commercial element of Darmaki's designs from 2015 onwards maintains its high standards of craftsmanship and design aspects from our earlier models in 2010 to 2012. Those pieces were over-the-top expensive, being more of an art piece than a wearable item. Our craftsmanship at the time was driven by a sense of - how far can we push this - and it took us all the way to the V&A Museum in London as a permanent exhibit to represent contemporary Middle Eastern fashion. Today Lydia, the burqa-inspired sandals sit alongside creations by footwear icons such as Christian Dior, Manolo Blahnik and Jimmy Choo.
Everyone from the UAE has been a huge supporter for the brand, and women from the UAE are one of our number one supporters. In fact, the core idea behind Lydia which some people perceived to be Roman-inspired is actually an interpretation of the gold metallic burqa, which veils a woman's face in certain parts of the Middle East. It says that the eye wants to see what's covered, and that's what I tried to do with Lydia by reinterpreting this concept in a footwear design.
At present, I am working on the Spring/Summer Collection for Darmaki. I visit the UAE regularly and have received an honorary invitation from the UAE Embassy in London where I will be attending our National Day functions.
Building bridges

As a cultural entrepreneur, Ahmed Al Anzi is passionate about mentoring local talent, a feat he conducts via his personal brand - Contemporary Bedouin. Driven by a love for human talent, he talks about his unrelenting efforts to connect local personalities with international brands.
I am proud of our Emirati culture and for the way it is emerging, especially in areas like performing arts and fine arts which are witnessing a high turnover of talent. This is where I come in. I believe there is a need for authentic stories within a personal brand, and I spend time emotionally engaging with designers to help them find themselves. Through this intimate process, I delve into their psychology to explore layers of their personality in order to bring out the authenticity of their work.
I do this because in this day and age, it is of utmost importance to be a brand that is believable and sustainable, especially in a market which is saturated with designers, ?to the point where even luxury is now ?mass produced.
The videos, for example, made by brands such as Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior do not directly appear to promote their brand. They tell new stories and deviate away from design in order to bring it back to design, with a renewed view. They make it convincing by using design experiences and committing to its local context.
As a mentor at Abu Dhabi Music and Arts Foundation's inaugural Cultural Excellence Fellowship, I am interested in volunteering time to add value to new talent or through an academic process. It brings me great joy when Emirati teenagers call me for advice, and take notes of my comments on fashion, art, psychology, design, sustainability, eco design, fashion installations, culture and heritage.
Although I have studied environmental science and marine biology, my thesis contains an assessment of textiles and their sustainability. My interest began as a young teenager, when I had the pleasure of accompanying my mother, an Emirati artist, on her trips to Paris.
I was exposed to fashion and textiles as early as age 14, when I met people from the trade, and built relationships with them over time. This also helps me to build a bridge for talent between East and West with networks I've built among these vibrant communities. Most of all, I believe that working with love produces its own rewards, which to me is its most sustainable feature.
Style statement

Hadef Al Shamsi, Co-Founder and CEO of Bait Al Kandora, talks about cutting-edge khaleeji menswear.
 As an esteemed national brand owned and operated by Emiratis, we are exceptionally proud of our national identity and heritage. Yet, until two years ago, no one had taken our proud dress to the next level, evolved the experience to be comparable to international brands or even considered empowering it with technology to serve the customer better.
Bait Al Kandora was built with the intension to change the world - give people more pride in their national dress and allow it to compete on the fashion arena as something precious and trendy. Moreover, we have collaborated with the best global designers, launching remarkable collections of leather sandals - Brotini - handcrafted in Florence, Italy.
We show our commitment to the communities we serve by providing corporate discounts to government organisations including Fazaa, Homat Al Watan, and by distributing free Kandora to orphans and old age homes.
Unique identity

Emirati Fashion Designer and Founder of Rouge Couture, Sara Al Madani shares her views on contributing wholeheartedly to her country.
 As the youngest board member of the Sharjah Chamber of Commerce and Industry, I am tremendously inspired by the power of my beautiful Emirati culture and the strides it has taken to accentuate Sharjah's unique identity, as well as to empower women entrepreneurs.
As an entrepreneur, I started my fashion line because I wanted to see all of us ladies embrace the beauty and versatility of the abaya. It used to be just something that we all wore, and I wanted to bring it to life with design and creative ideas. Bringing these two worlds together, the old and the new, feels fantastic.
It always amazes me when someone uses their background and heritage along with their own creativity and futuristic visions to enhance their well-being and improve the lives of others.
Talented in abstract art

Multidisciplinary designer Aljoud Lootah celebrates Emirati culture using traditional geometric motifs, reflections, light, shadow, and functional objects like Arabic coffee cups, pots and stylish furniture. She shares her joyful journey.
I am deeply honoured when people respond to my work and recognise its Emirati elements. Rose gold, glass and wood are some materials that I work with, and I've interpreted the Arabesque eight-pointed star motif into The Unfolding Unity Stool in marble and wood.
My love for my Emirati roots led me to design VIP gifts such as a set of book ends that were inspired by a pair of daggers that belong to the private collection of the Al Nahyan family. The dagger has been associated with the Emirate of Abu Dhabi since 1968 when it was first portrayed in the Governments' official crest. My Tebr Arabic coffee cups were used by The Lighthouse Cafe on International Coffee Day as a way to uphold Emirati tradition. In fact, the Tebr collection can be purchased from the gift shop at the Louvre Abu Dhabi.
One-of-a-kind designer

Creative Director and Co-Founder Abdulla BelJafla launched his Arabesque line of Gafla Jewellery during the first Dubai Design Week and he is driven to return every year with inspirations from his rich Emirati culture.
From his majlis in Dubai Design District, BelJafla talks about collections, collaborations and his beliefs - to never give up, keep working hard, and that no hard work is wasted.
He says, "The Merwad collection of perfume bottles was created out of the beautiful memory of how traditionally we always welcome our guests with perfume.
"The Jumah collection is the first ring I designed, and it was a presentation of the joyful family and friends gathering on Friday.
"I love collaborating with talented designers from different fields. We hosted a fashion designer during Fashion Forward and worked with an amazing architect Abdalla Almulla during Dubai Design Week to create an experience inspired by our latest collection - Baraag, which means flashes of light. It is a three-dimensional structure from rhombus shaped discs, which replicates the shapes.
"I love designing everything not just jewellery. I find solution in design.
"Dubai Design District is such a lively area that just keeps on growing, and we are so blessed to be part of this community.
"My office is my home. We have a majlis to receive our clients and friends and my team are so much fun to work with and that is truly important in building the right team."