Home

East side story

Chinese Village at the Marina Walk serves Far Eastern cuisine with a twist of Indian-ness. No one’s complaining about identity losses

By Sushmita Bose (Fine Dining)

Published: Fri 7 Oct 2011, 9:18 PM

Last updated: Tue 7 Apr 2015, 3:06 AM

A few days ago, beleaguered by carb cravings, I picked up the phone to order fried rice from a friendly neighbourhood eatery near the KT offices. This place specialises in Indian and Pakistani food; the ‘Chinese’ is a bonus. Intrigued by the mention of Shanghai Fried Rice on the takeaway menu, I asked the booming voice on the other end what that would entail.

“It’s a popular Shanghai dish,” he replied in Hindi/Urdu, without a moment’s hesitation. “Rice mixed with spicy noodles.”

Obviously, I ordered the regular fried rice, the one that came with the ketchup, and omelettes torn into little bits, mixed into the basmati rice — a telling example of ‘Indianised Chinese’ (maybe not as telling as the Shanghai rice would have been).

Usually, we tend to be just a wee bit circumspect of subcontinental Chinese. Mostly because cuisine from the eastern part of the world goes well beyond the signature chilli chicken and fried rice; and because ‘derivatives’ have lashings of spices that make them endearing for South Asian palates. While these make for great meals once every month or so, the evolved diner would probably leans towards a more ‘authentic’ experience, particularly if there is a special occasion in order.

Chinese Village could well be an exception to this rule. Business here appears to be booming; most times, the place is chock-a-block with well-heeled clientele looking for an evening well spent. The Village has two other outlets in Dubai, both in distinctly South Asian environs: Nihal Hotel, Deira, and Sea View Hotel, Bur Dubai. At the Marina Walk, the restaurant sees a far more global crowd, the manager informs —  “Arabs, Western expats and, of course, Indians.”

The restaurant chefs hail from Bombay, Calcutta (the Chinatown area of the city has had considerable influence over its Chinese spreads) and, interestingly, Kathmandu. And the origins of the food are not strictly Chinese — there’s a smattering of Thai, Korean and Indonesian.

It’s not just that alongside Thai-styled pancakes of mashed corn, you have paneer hot pepper; for even authentically-titled dishes — like, say, Pla Naeng Manao (Thai steamed fish) or Chicken Taro Nest (chicken cubes in potato basket) — there is a goodly twist of Indian-isation, recreating a spicier (in the Indian sense) experience.

The most telling indication of Chinese Village’s fusion story is the comprehensive vegetarian sections with every section on the menu — starting from the soups/salads and starters, right down to the main course.

The food is delicious, and the service attentive. Special mention must be made about the mixed dimsum platter, the Prawn Celery Chilli, and the Crispy Spinach Chicken; the latter two leave you with a well-rounded feeling inside your tummy, but totally worth the extra baggage.

Other than the extremely aesthetic inside seating arrangement — there’s no in-your-face signage from Dragon Land, it’s all very contemporary with a quietly traditional spin — there’s a semi-outside seating area, where we sat, and an entirely al fresco one lining the waters of the Marina (which is operational during the cooler months).

From wherever you sit, the view of one of the city’s most cosmopolitan corners looms up majestically, reminding you that you are in the heartland of fusion culture.

Spicily tweaked Chinese never felt as much at home.

sushmita@khaleejtimes.com

What we liked:  Food, decor and service