Power to the Poutine

What is it?

Poutine starts with a mound of French fries (chips) hot from the fryer, which are then buried in salty brown gravy and topped with fresh cheese curds. The gravy is typically made with chicken stock, but you’ll also see veal, beef and occasionally vegetarian versions. The best cheese curds are so fresh that they make a squeaky sound when you bite into them.

Origin

Poutine is Quebec slang for ‘a mess’. According to legend, in 1957 a customer walked into a restaurant in Wawrwick, northeast of Montreal, and asked the owner, Fernand Lachance, to toss some cheese curds in with his potatoes. Lachance complied but reportedly said, ‘Ça va faire une maudite poutine!’ (‘That’s going to make a damn mess!’) Jean-Paul Roy, a restaurateur in nearby Drummondville, claimed that he invented the complete poutine a few years later when he mixed gravy as well as cheese curds into the fries.

Tasting

Stab your fork into the pile of potatoes and pull out a starchy spear, drenched in gravy and dripping with cheese. It’s not elegant, but it’s a perfect cure for the munchies after a last call at the pub. It’s a staple of ski resorts, casual eateries and chip stands, too — fast-food stalls sell burgers, hot dogs and sometimes fried fish along with poutine. Wherever you’re indulging, let your poutine sit for a minute or two, so the cheese begins to melt and soak into the gravy. Don’t wait too long or the potatoes will get soggy. You want the ideal balance of crisp potato, soft cheese and gooey gravy.

Finding it

For poutine anytime, head for La Banquise in Montreal, open 24 hours. A plate typically costs around CAD$6 to CAD$14 (US$6 to US$14).

• VARIATIONS *

Although poutine originated in Quebec, you can now find it across Canada — this down-home dish has even gone upscale. In high-end dining rooms, its trendy toppings might include braised short ribs, duck confit and even foie gras. In Quebec, poutine is pronounced ‘poo-tin’.

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Poutine

A classic poutine is usually made from St Hubert packet sauce and fresh cheese curds, which are readily available in Québécois supermarkets. Shredded mozzarella and ready-mix chicken gravy are acceptable substitutes.

Serves: 4

Ingredients

For the homemade chicken gravy:

2 cups chicken stock

1 tablespoon butter

2 tablespoons flour

For the fries:

5 potatoes, peeled and sliced into fries

Vegetable oil for frying

400 gms fresh cheese curds

2 cups chicken gravy, either from a packet or homemade

Method

1. Prepare the gravy. If using a ready-mixed sauce, simply warm according to the packet instructions.

2. If making your own gravy, melt the butter in a saucepan and stir in the flour until it becomes a yellow paste.

3. Slowly whisk in the stock, ensuring it is free of lumps.

4. Let simmer for approximately 10 minutes until the volume reduces by about a third. Remove the sauce from the heat and set aside.

5. While the gravy is simmering, rinse the potatoes in cold water and dry thoroughly.

6. Deep-fry or shallow-fry the potatoes until golden brown.

7. Place the fries in a shallow bowl. Top with the cheese curds and smother with the gravy. Serve immediately.