Souk Al Bahar’s Meat Co

A STEAK DINNER - possibly one of the more aspiratonal repasts – can make the difference between feeling a decent week has been experienced, or a damp squib of a time has just past that only an action-packed weekend could save. What we’re saying is, given that most only enjoy a big slab of red meat once in seven days, it better be a good one to put you in good spirits.

Many restaurants across Dubai boast the greatest steaks in the region. While this may be true, some are undoubtedly better than others and that usually (unfortunately) depends on price. The principal can be demonstrated analogously through the selling points attributed to cars. A trusty Ford Figo will get you around, is comfortable and extremely cost effective. An Aston Martin is arguably more comfortable and will get you to your destination faster, offering more entertainment along the way. Some may argue that this should not be a consideration as long as the humble fillet ordered in a food court, for example, is tasty and filling and they’d be correct. It’s just the chances are a little more favourable in fine dining establishments that a higher grade of meat will be served and prepared to offer a better meal to the customer.

The Meat Co’s prices evoke the sense that this is a high-end eatery. Its location with a view of the Dubai Fountain and ambient interior reinforce the notion. The menu divides opinion. On the one hand there is a Chateaubriand costing almost Dhs500 (best split between two) and on the other, a list of burgers. The extremely affable waiter, when the point was raised, gave us his take. In South Africa (from where the restaurant originated), he said, even the most coveted eateries are informal. That’s the ethos The Meat Co. wishes to uphold. It has succeeded. Pulling off a fine balancing act between casual and formal, no item on the carte, nor patron feels out of place.

The meal itself was of a superior standard.

The starters of peppered calamari and Boerwors made a great introduction along with the homemade bread.

Opting for the opulent Chateaubriand to share, with boiled potatoes, asparagus, mushrooms, onion rings and a peppercorn sauce, it was perhaps the way the meat was cooked that was most impressive. Asking for one half of the portion to be rare and the other blue, the chef did his best to satisfy both parties.

And that is how one can some up the restaurant: it goes out of its way to appeal to most hankerings. For reservations visit themeatco.com

• Food and Dining