Spanish Bites

What is it?

The Spanish take on a doughnut, the churro is a long, star-shaped tube (the dough is piped through a star-shaped nozzle) that’s deep-fried until golden, then dunked into thick hot chocolate. Sold in churrerías and from stalls in the street, this is an Iberian breakfast to beat them all.

Origin

The ‘churro’ sheep was a breed known for the quality of its wool. The shepherds who looked after them were, like most shepherds, only able to carry the basics, which in Spain was fried bread: simple and easy to cook on the go. Sugar was later sprinkled on top and the shape evolved into the star-shaped form, meaning the outside can crisp up while the centre stays soft.

Tasting

It’s the hangover to end them all, the sort that renders normal conversation impossible. Even thinking hurts. But then you catch the scent of sweet, frying dough. You stop, look around and spot the stall. A great vat is filled with boiling oil, and the fresh dough, pushed through a star-shaped nozzle, is plopped in.

There is a delectable sizzle; no more than a minute passes before the crisp, piping-hot tubes are hauled out, drained and sprinkled with sugar. The first bite is red-hot but deeply addictive — a crunch then blissful softness. A few more and it’s gone. The second churro disappears in record time. By the time the hot chocolate arrives, you’re coming back to life, the grimace replaced by sugared grin. Chocolate and churros… a truly heavenly match.

Finding It

The Chocolateria San Ginés in Madrid serves some of the finest churros in the country. Expect to pay from €2 to €4 (US$2.70 to US$5.45).

Variations

You’ll find them sprinkled with cinnamon, dipped in café con leche (coffee with milk) and in a variety of forms (straight, curled and twisted). Down south, they tend to be thicker, and in the rest of the country they’re known as porra. In Argentina, Peru, Mexico and Chile, you’ll find them filled with chocolate or caramelised milk, known as dulce de leche or cajeta.

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