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You don’t know man, you weren’t there

RESISTING THE URGE to descend into a series of tedious Vietnam movie quotes is no mean feat when discussing any item hailing from the East Asian nation. So, rest assured that the headline to this piece shall be the first and last nod to those numerous American war “epics,” yet is justified in its inclusion because if you haven’t been down to Hoi An at the Shangri-la Hotel, Dubai, you don’t know what you’re missing.

Boasting a vast array of Vietnamese dishes, complete with the inevitable mild ‘French twist’ so as not to scare off the unadventurous, Hoi An brings an authentic touch of the Orient to Dubai. Enveloped in a luxurious set up, those returning from a trip to the Communist state bedecked in flip-flops and pointy straw hats may not blend in with the décor, however, the food you’re hankering for will be pretty close to the mark.

Heading down on a Monday night meant the taster set menu was on offer and highly recommended by the Vietnamese serving crew as the easiest way to sample the best concoctions the chef could muster.

Sipping on a glass of sparkling water, plumping for a slice of strawberry instead of lemon for flavour (yes, that’s an option), the courses made their way to the table.

First up was a combination plate of four, what many mothers would term, ‘picky bits.’ Spring rolls – both the fried and rice paper variety- containing chicken and shellfish beside grilled duck sausage and a lobster ravioli with mango sauce adorned the plate. The duck sausage was unconventional, which livened up this rather anodyne introduction, however the rice paper spring roll with chicken and shrimp, whilst not pushing the boundaries of invention was the winner. Overall a satisfactory beginning.

Next came a seafood salad, which was tangy, crispy and bursting with quintessential Viet-chic. However, it paled in comparison to the following course: a good old homemade pho. What this simple beef and vegetable broth lacks in ingenuity, it makes up for in being absolutely delicious. It’s a staple back in the old country for a reason and has travelled extremely well. The beef gave off just enough lipid goodness to thicken the soup and the crunchy greens made for a hearty emulsion of zest and stock.

Beef was once more on the running order for the main course, this time in a grilled marinated tenderloin version with potato and vegetables. Again this wasn’t the most complex fare, but the expert way it was fashioned meant the plate returned empty.

There was barely room for the mango soup and coconut ice cream dessert, but it disappeared anyway, topping off a fantastic culinary event… man. David Light

For reservations call 04 405 2703.

PICK OF THE WEEK

On cloud 9

Table 9 by Nick & Scott, Hilton Dubai Creek

On April 10, table 9 will be hosting its first ever bubbly dinner with a selection of dishes from the award winning kitchen paired with Veuve Clicquot.

Table 9 sommeliers Viktorija Paplauskiene and Jane Nedanoski will present a selection of vintages from Veuve alongside six sophisticated dishes. The set menu for the night includes seafood selections such as crab, lobster and scallops.

Call: 04 212 7551

All that Jazz

Ruth’s Chris Steakhouses, Dubai

Ruth’s Chris has launched their new ‘Brunch and all that Jazz’ available every Friday. The New Orleans style restaurants in The Address Dubai Marina and The H Hotel, will be providing live entertainment each week courtesy of Dubai’s favourite jazz vocalist – Andrea Brown. ‘Brunch and all that Jazz’ offers guests an a la carte brunch with a range of Ruth’s Chris’s best dishes paired with fine beverage packages and a delicious oyster bar.

Visit: ruthschris.ae