UAE: How an all-inclusive modelling agency is redefining what beauty looks and feels like

“Beauty is in the eyes of the beholder.” In the age of social media, however, the eye of the beholder has (almost) been templated. We routinely come across images of men and women who look a certain way, and eventually become a talking point themselves for the way they appear. Why are we so awed by the likes of Gigi Hadid or Kendal Jenner? Is it their success, power, charm, and exorbitant influence? Or is it because they fit perfectly into our notions of what beauty ought to be like — thin, picture-perfect, and flawless? ‘Oh, she has won the genetic lottery’ is a phrase we often hear in passing. Well, who defines this ‘genetic lottery’? Moreover, on what basis are its winners selected?

The world of modelling creates the beauty agenda. But underneath all that glitter is a stark reality that is rarely discussed. That of broken self-esteems, eating disorders, casting rejections, and self-loathing.

This has also given rise to other talking points in the world of fashion — modest fashion, plus-size modelling, and pimple positivity being just some of them. But to what extent do these conversations change the reality on ground?

Despite being told she was born for the limelight since childhood, Mariam George faced countless modelling rejections. Why? Because she did not fit into the standard of a tall, fair, and skinny woman we hope to see as face of brands. So, the 21-year-old decided to start her own modelling agency with friends, Anuroop Ajit and Ashi Karun. Today, The Mariam George Models claims to be the first all-inclusive modelling agency in the UAE. To Mariam, however, it is a platform to help others find beauty in themselves and redefine what it truly means to be beautiful.

Getting behind the camera

After dropping out of college, Mariam began posting fun skits on TikTok, which acquired a following. Today, she is a social media influencer in her own right with a following of 127k on Instagram. Being effortlessly confident, she aspired to become a model. It only helped that she did her first shoot at the age of 10 and loved every bit of it. Years later, when she decided to take the plunge professionally, there were harsh realities waiting for her. The standards in the industry were way too rigid for someone like Mariam to flourish. It was then that she decided to take matters into her hand. “I do not like being told what to do, so behind the camera was the perfect place for me,” says 21-year-old Mariam. As part of her role ‘behind the camera’, Mariam wants to bring out the best in others and have them “thrive in their own independence”. “I want to make sure they are comfortable in their own skin,” she says.

Why inclusive modelling?

This wisdom has come after Mariam experienced a spate of rejections herself. In fact, she was rejected in her first modelling gig before she joined Bareface, a modelling agency based in Dubai. The competition, however, was tough, and she realised that the industry hardly had a spot for a 5’5” curvy, South Indian model. She then got into commercial modelling, which only involved shots of her face.

Mariam, however, wasn’t alone in her struggle. She saw her own friends, who had stunning pictures on their Instagram profiles, get rejected by agencies for not fitting into their standards. She decided to take charge. The rationale for setting up The Mariam George Models has been simple: “When you see someone on a billboard or magazine, the first thing I want people to think is ‘Oh my God, she looks just like me’, and not, ‘Oh, I wish I looked like her’.”

The idea is, undoubtedly, powerful and appealing. But will it survive the jarring, deep-seated constructs we have of beauty? Mariam says her goal was never to get more clients, rather she wanted young talents and public, in general, to know that there was an organisation they could approach, a place that served their interests. “It is not always easy getting clients since most brands are not looking for diverse models, and there is just one standard that they stick to. But I think slowly, the industry is changing and brands like Huda Beauty and Reebok are supporting more inclusivity in their shoots,” says Mariam.

Consistency and beauty have never gone hand in hand, as every era has established a different standard of beauty. Now, in the 21st century, ideals that were unacceptable back in the day are seen as assets in the modelling world. “Every single body type at one point was considered beautiful, but never all at once. So having them considered beautiful all at once is the goal, that not just our agency, but I think the entire world is trying to achieve,” says Mariam.

What goes into it?