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À la mod

Forty-two years after opening its first store in London’s stylish Carnaby Street, fashion brand Merc has launched in Dubai. City Times chats with label founder Javid Alavi

IN MID-1960s LONDON, conflicting subculture revivals were burrowing their way into the consciousness of the capital’s youth.

While ‘rockers’ were scruffy, drunken, leather-clad motorbike fanatics, ‘mods’ were erudite and fashion-conscious, with a penchant for Vespa scooters.

London’s epicentre of chic, Carnaby Street in Soho, proved a popular destination for mods – who would make their way down to scour the numerous independently owned fashion stores.

Into this scene stepped Javid Alavi – introducing his fledgling label Merc, which specialised in sleek and stylish mod wear.

Right from the start, the young Iranian fused his skills as a designer with his love of music. He acquired a music licence for the store, turning it into a gigging venue as well as a place to source the latest threads.

Merc remains in Carnaby Street to this day, and continues to host some of England’s hottest new acts. Artists set to perform imminently include The Rumble Strips and Diamond Rings singer Emeli Sandé, fresh from her own Dubai jaunt.

And now the brand has landed in Festival City, hoping to make a similarly commanding impact on the city’s fashion scene.

City Times phoned Javid, who these days resides as chairman of the Merc group of companies.

What’s your day-to-day role within Merc these days?

I work a few days a week from my office at home, south of Guildford (in the London suburbs). It’s a 300-year-old renovated medieval church. Merc is involved in a number of other businesses, like licensing, catering and property, and now we have a new venture. We’re opening a stable for 100 racehorses in the south of Spain; it’s a fairly high-class operation which is due to be completed in November.

How did Merc first come into being?

Fashion has always been in my heart. In those days, the styles you would find in the centre of London were absolutely amazing. We started with a small design house at #47 Carnaby Street, which was 300 square feet. We put together a small collection of 12 to 15 items in December 1967 with some suits, polo shirts and Harrington jackets. They started selling very quickly and we expanded within a year or so to a bigger place, opened factories and started production. It was absolutely fantastic.

Were you a mod yourself?

I always dressed clean, but not moddish really.

Were the 1960s in London as swinging as everyone remembers?

The 1960s were the life of music and fashion. I loved music, and the whole thing at Merc was connected with music rather than me personally having a Mod style. Still to this day, there is a gig every two weeks in the shop. Funnily enough, we’re the only shop in London with a live music licence.

Which musicians or bands has Merc worked with in the past?

Any artist you can think of has been in the Merc store at one stage. We’ve sold to The Beatles, The Rolling Stones, The Jam, The Small Faces, Bob Marley, The Kinks, Oasis, David Bowie, The Police…

What was it like having the biggest names in rock and roll come to your store?

It was absolutely brilliant. In those days it was simple, because Merc was a meeting place for musicians. They were all pretty good people — open and chatty. Carnaby Street was a friendly place, there was no formality. Now it’s the same with the young generation of Merc.

How has Carnaby Street changed over the decades?

It has obviously changed in different ways. Now it’s mostly big name brand stores and offices, but in those days there were 30 or 40 individual designers and tailors who would make you a suit in a couple of days.

Are your children planning to carry the Merc name into the future?

All three of my children are involved. I have two sons and one daughter – my son runs the American side of the company, my daughter deals with customers and my youngest son runs the retail section. They’re pretty good; hard-working and no-nonsense.

What brings Merc to Dubai?

I have a very strong trade connection with the Middle East, and I’ve done a massive amount of business there in the past. It’s easy to trade in the Middle East once you’ve built up trust. There’s not a lot of red tape or obstruction, and within a short space of time you can open a shop. Our intention is expansion; I’ve now been offered five other shops in different parts of the UAE. We’re hoping to open another store in Abu Dhabi over the next three to four months.

Personally speaking, are you planning on easing your workload any time soon?

I enjoy working and I do it continuously. It’s not about going after the money but doing the job properly, correctly and honestly. It’s been 40-plus years, and I’ve got another 40 to go. I’m full of energy!

Merc is located in Dubai Festival City; call 04 232 8988 for more information.

adam@khaleejtimes.com