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Designer Ahmed Abdelrahman talks about The Power of Eight

Thamanyah designer Ahmed Abdelrahman gives us his eight thoughts on fashion, style and the growing design scene in Dubai

Reinvention is a powerful thing. Seeing something we thought we knew in a completely different light is, in essence, what fashion is all about. Local designer Ahmed Abdelrahman has managed to achieve that through his highly successful brand Thamanyah. With simple genius, and out of necessity, Ahmed took the clean white kandora we all know, seeped in historical and cultural references, and recreated it. Combining Italian tailoring with Middle Eastern sensibility, Ahmed created a dark, modern, monolithic aesthetic with attractive silhouettes. The dialogue of reinvention didn't end there. Flawlessly blending cross-cultural ideas into single pieces and collections, Ahmed's still, soulful and streamlined vision has seen Thamanyah breakthrough into international markets. From LN-CC and Selfridges in London, Atelier and Barneys in New York, Maxfield in Los Angeles, Ink-Clothing in Beijing, Isetan in Tokyo, Number 4 in Kuwait City and Cartel in Alserkal Avenue in Dubai, Ahmed's world of modern, sleek, sincere clothing, which was only available for men, is now available in his first women's collection. Thamanyah means eight in Arabic and is a spiritually significant number across many cultures. We spoke to Ahmed about its importance to him, his influences, vision and how he created the globetrotter's kandora.

The beginning . . .
I started creating Kandoras for myself in 2010, when I was still a high jewellery consultant for a number of Parisian maisons in Place Vendome.
The job required intensive short back and forth travel between Paris and Abu Dhabi, very often for few hours, and so I designed washable non crease cool wool kandoras that I could wear in France, the UAE and wherever I am in the world. It is what I call the globe trotter kandora. Those kandoras had to be sharp, modern and relevant.

Challenges . . .
With the stores, there were absolutely no issues to face. On the contrary, being Emirati was an additional reason for stores like Maxfields Los Angeles, Isetan Tokyo, Selfridges London, to buy the collection. Of course the product had to have a strong DNA and personality, produced and presented beautifully. Randomness of design, production and presentation is what worries any store, not the fact that you are an Emirati designer. Karlo Steele from Atelier New York told me: "Dubai needs a native son, and Thamanyah is here to serve this purpose." This could be the most reassuring and faith generating phrase anyone has said to me since I started designing.

Tough Love . . .
Until three years ago, the support system for designers was almost non-existent. Today, although the support system is still under development, there is a blossoming hope through the efforts of the Dubai Design Fashion Council team lead by Nez Gebreel. Nez comes from the business of fashion, and understands the dynamics and the phases of building an international brand capable of producing, distributing and delivering internationally. She also understands the vocabulary of designers, and gets what designers talk about perfectly, which on the other hand keeps us on our toes since there is no fooling around with her. You have heard of tough love, right?

The Magic Number
I was always attracted to the eight angled star found in the historical and contemporary Islamic architecture. Also we are eight siblings in the family, and I am the youngest. Why I chose the Arabic pronunciation is another story. A funny one indeed. My friend and mentor Michele Lamy was taking Arabic lessons at the time I was putting the brand together. Although she could count from 1 to 10 effortlessly, Michlele could never memorise 'Thamanyah'. So I thought I should call my line Thamanyah instead of Eight to help her with her elementary Arabic classes. Now she has forgotten all the numbers in Arabic but Thamanyah!

The difference between style and fashion . . .
Fashion victims are similar to someone who moves apartments every six months. Style is a sense of home, tribe, belonging and being in your element. When you find your style you are not that concerned about fashion anymore.

Influences . . .
Carol Christian Poell's evolved sense of aesthetics is a huge influence. He is the genius of the underground fashion. The mythology that surrounds his world comes from an unshakable consistency of vision and style.
Another person who has an immense influence is my friend and mentor Michele Lamy. Her tribal spirit, strange logic, chaotic multi-disciplinary approach to self-expression, and the manner she carries herself is affecting all those who are in close proximity.

New ventures in women's wear . . .
Designing the women's collection was such a joy. It was a breezy, logical and smooth continuation of Thamanyah's DNA and vocabulary. We just had to do it. The collection was very well received in Paris by great stores such as Maxfiels LA, Hotoveli New York, Barneys New York, Antonioli Milan and Selfridges London.

The Future . . .
Launch of Thamanyah Online Store, launch of Thamanyah haute couture and made-to-measure, and the expansion of the footwear proposal with a modern slick interpretation of Arabic sandals. I am also venturing into architecture and interior design. Moreover, there is this feeling that Thamanyah will be fully represented in UAE in someway or another in 2016 or 2017. Perhaps in an exhibition.
(maan@khaleejtimes.com)