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The lost empire

Enchanting Lazio has far more to offer than just Rome

ALL ROADS LEAD to Rome and then out into Lazio, a region of Roman villas, classical enchantment, marvellous Mediterranean landscapes of gentle hills and hidden lakes, Etruscans' mysterious traces and the sea.

Nearly two centuries ago, large numbers of German artists moved to Lazio, at Rome's doorstep, in the belief that they had found paradise. What remains of that place today?

By no means does the west-central Italian region, known in Latin as Latium, want to be a stepchild that has to stand on tiptoe to get noticed. Nor a Cinderella. Nor the weekend booty of stressed-out Romans.

Once the magical destination of Italy-addicted painters and poets seeking subject matter, contemplation, and stimulation, there as a contrast to the profusion of churches and monuments in Rome, Lazio still shines with diversity.

Not the least part of Lazio's wealth is culinary by nature. The land pours forth a veritable cornucopia, so every visitor can find something on his or her trips of discovery.

One possible excursion is a rather leisurely train ride to Frascati and the Alban Hills, site of the pope's summer residence. The urban sprawl around Rome has to be traversed first, of course. But about 20 kilometres southeast of the capital, a panorama of the Campagna already comes into view.

On the tables in front of the bars is the light, mellow white wine for which Frascati is renowned. Busy Rome is quickly forgotten here, though it is visible far away in the shimmering sunlight.

Moving on towards Tivoli, east of Rome, travellers come into contact with classical antiquity. Just outside the town lies Villa Adriana, a complex of buildings created by the Roman emperor Hadrian (76-138 AD).

A philosopher, too, who travelled extensively in the empire, Hadrian borrowed architectural forms he had seen in places like Syria, Egypt, and Greece to build a grandiose residence of stone amidst stone pines, cypresses and oaks. What he wanted was a kind of early world exposition with baths, a maritime theatre - the whole works. Today the villa is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

One of the attractions in Tivoli itself is also on the World Heritage list: the Villa d' Este. Cardinal Ippolito II d'Este conceived the palace and 35,000-square-metre Renaissance garden - a monument to his ambitions for power- after a failed bid for the papacy.

Laid out in the 16th century, the garden is an amazing synthesis of the arts whose waterworks meld ingenious hydraulic engineering, manifold perspectives, and mythological allusions. A canal 600 metres in length brings 600 litres of water per minute from the Aniene River. Many generations have admired this Italian masterpiece.

A relaxing way to spend the day is to wander through the ancient Roman harbour city of Ostia Antica, about 30 kilometres from the bustle of Rome. Originally at the mouth of the Tiber River, it is now about six kilometres upstream. Abandoned to its fate for centuries, this spacious treasure-trove of classical culture is a well-preserved illustration of Roman architecture that provides insight into daily life in the once thriving commercial centre.

Thanks to land reclamation and archaeological excavations in Ostia Antica, three-storey residential buildings have been retrieved from the darkness of the past, along with ancient cafes and public latrines with a gutter under the marble seats.

Amid the chirping of cicadas, foreign study groups fan out in the amphitheatre, which dates from the reign of Emperor Augustus. Situated in the heart of Ostia Antica, the structure is so well preserved that even today open-air concerts are held there.

For wanderers in the mood for a picnic, though, the best spot is under one of the many stone pines. They provide shade without blocking the view of the surrounding ruins.

Another worthwhile destination in Lazio is the town of Cerveteri, northwest of Rome. It is famous for its necropolis from the period of the Etruscans, a people whom the Romans displaced.

A good place for bathing is island-speckled Lake Bolsena, near the border with the regions of Tuscany and Umbria.