Restaurant Review: Japan’s culinary soul meets Abu Dhabi’s elegance at Strawfire

When you step into Strawfire at the Emirates Palace Mandarin Oriental, Abu Dhabi, you’re not just entering a restaurant you’re stepping into the mind and heart of Chef Ross Shonhan. He has poured decades of experience, countless research trips to Japan, and his unwavering passion for Nipponese cuisine into creating this one-of-a-kind dining experience.

At the heart of Strawfire lies Warayaki, an ancient Japanese technique of straw-fire cooking that imbues every dish with bold, smoky flavours. But here, it’s not just about the flames, it’s about Chef Shonhan’s commitment to honouring Japanese traditions while elevating them for the modern palate.

The experience begins the moment you enter. The Tsukimi Lounge, with its serene full moon harvest ambiance, is an invitation to pause and reflect before diving in-to the culinary adventure. The main dining room, dominated by an open grill and soft golden drapery that symbolises dancing flames, places the art of Warayaki front and centre. But the pièce de résistance is the Toyama Private Dining Room. Centered around a breathtaking 7.3-metre-long, 830-kilogram Shimenawa rope, this space is a masterpiece of Japanese craftsmanship. Handcrafted in Toyama, Japan, and symbolising sanctity and protection, the rope is suspended dramatically above the dining table, creating a focal point that is as awe-inspiring as it is meaningful. The hand-painted silk walls depict scenes inspired by Japanese masterpieces, from the gilded beauty of In and Around the Capital to the iconic works of Hiroshige and Hokusai, weaving history and culture into the very fabric of the room.

The menu is a masterpiece, offering flavours that cater to diverse palates. It opens with dishes like the Japanese Wagyu Beef Sashimi, where tender slices of premium beef meet the umami-rich notes of mizuna, bonito powder, and gyu tare. For a zesty twist, the Yellowtail Tiradito dazzles with its rocoto dressing, pickled kumquat, and vibrant annatto oil.

Seafood lovers will find paradise here, with offerings like the Bluefin Tuna Tartare, served in a delicate monaka shell with spring onion and wasabi mayo, and the decadent Kanazawa x Abu Dhabi, a fusion of king crab, caviar, and edible gold—a dish that perfectly symbolises the opulence of its setting. The Lobster Hand Roll adds a burst of yuzu kosho mayonnaise, while the Chirashi delivers a medley of seasonal fish complemented by shiso and spicy mayo.

Even the vegetarian options shine. The Avocado dish, elevated with feta cheese, crispy gyoza skin, and sudachi dressing, is a symphony of textures and flavors. Meanwhile, the Takoyaki, filled with mountain yam and topped with bonito flakes and ao nori, is a nod to Japanese street food, reimagined for the fine-dining table.

Main courses are no less spectacular. The Australian Wagyu Striploin MB4-5 arrives perfectly cooked, glazed with Japanese BBQ sauce that enhances its natural richness. The Crab Don, with its layers of Japanese omelet, asparagus, salmon roe, and crab fat aioli, is indulgence in every bite. Side dishes like the Green Beans with tobanjan and sesame dressing provide a refreshing balance to the rich mains.

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