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Modest wear is the inthing

With the new realisation that being stylish isn't about showing skin, the modest wear category is poised to become a part of mainstream international fashion.

With Chanel choosing Dubai as their destination for their Cruise fashion show last year, and now New York's hip young label Public School showing their Pre-Fall collection in the city on Monday, there is no question that the international fashion is now looking at Dubai very closely. There is good reason for this newfound love, which has more to do with material gain, than a real appreciation of the mode of the Middle East.
According to Thomson Reuters, Muslims spent $266 billion on clothing and footwear in 2013. Which exceeds the total spend of Japan and Italy combined. Fashion now wants and needs to address this market, especially with China, India and other new markets like Brazil having a bad spell.
DKNY and Tommy Hilfiger have both previously launched Ramadan collections. Brands from Oscar de la Renta to Mango have created special lines for the Middle East market. H&M, the world's second largest retailer, recently featured a hijab-wearing model in their "Close the Loop" campaign. Modest wear is now becoming a very fashionable term. Dressing "modest" is about adopting the Islamic principles of dressing, which means full sleeves, and full length; which now also stands for full fashion.
"These collections are made purely for commercial reasons, to tap into a huge market that has spending power. In the Gulf, they are style savvy, well travelled, and no longer wish to go through the huge old hassle of layering from multiple stores," says Rabia Z. This Afghan-Emirati designer could clearly see the gap for universal chic modest wear after she chose to start wearing the hijab while living in America. Considered one of the pioneers of "Modest High Fashion", she was one of the local designers selected to show at Swarovski's "Sparkling Couture" show held in Dubai last week. Swarovski is the global leader in cut crystals and fashion jewellery and couturiers from all over the world depend on their crystals to add some sparkle to their creations. Forty fashion labels from across the Middle East and Asia-Pacific region were invited to take part in Swarovski's "Sparkling Couture", a one-evening showcase of one-of-a-kind pieces. Though this was a global event, Swarovski chose to have a special modest wear section, proving that international brands now want to be seen as modest wear savvy.
There is one very stylish side effect of this focus that international brands are giving 'modest wear'. It has helped give a rush of energy to the "Made in Arabia" label and in general to the Modest Wear segment. Namshi.com is a Dubai-based online retail company launched by Germany's Rocket Internet, and their "Arab Wear" segment has seen encouraging growth of late. Their head of buying, Lawrie Kemp, says: "This trend is definitely offering both local and regional designers a chance to revive elements of the local culture; it is also a great chance for local brands to collaborate with bigger names in fashion. Dubai has become the fashion hub of the Middle East and over the last few years we have seen all the globally renowned designers come to this region to engage with people in this part of the world. This has transformed Dubai into a successful platform for local brands to boost their image and showcase their collections." And now even international online sites such as www.netaporter.com have introduced special modest wear capsules.
Against this backdrop, last year, Alia Khan set up the Islamic Fashion and Design Council (IFDC) in Dubai. As someone who had produced fashion shows, she has an inside view of the industry and felt there was a need for a council promoting Islamic fashion. Today, Canadian-born Alia is a style icon in the region thanks to her effortless takes on modest wear. With offices in London and New York, IFDC is hoping to take modest fashion international. Having tied up with Beximco, one of the largest and most innovative textile and manufacturing companies with clients including Zara, H&M, Tommy Hilfiger, Top Shop, Calvin Klein, Mango, C&A, Macys and many more leading brands, they have launched a new modest wear label "Prêt a Cover", which aims to give modest wear a truly global platform. At a recent panel discussion presented by the IFDC at International Textile Fair in Dubai, panelist Brigitte Stepputtis, the Global Head of Couture for Vivienne Westwood, said, "You don't have to be a Muslim to appreciate this type of fashion".
While international fashion brands have tried to launch their own modest lines, it does seem that you need to come from this region to truly understand how to make beautiful modest wear. Just like when Hermes tried to launch a sari in India, most international brands' attempt to design modest wear has been disappointing. They are not able to understand how to redefine and give a fresh perspective to this segment the way regional designers do. But then since most international brands' motives are purely commercial, it is no surprise they are unable to really understand the essence of modern modest dressing.
For that you need to turn to local labels such as well-established labels Rabia Z or fashion newcomer Bouguessa. Both make clothes that maybe "modest" in their DNA, but are international in their outlook. French-Algerian designer Bouguessa's fusion of trends and shirts with the Abaya ensures this traditional robe does not look out of place on the streets of Milan, Manhattan or Mumbai. Rabia Z's label range from sports to eveningwear and caters to all needs of Muslim women. Her clean and chic approach to Arab fashion has meant that women of many faiths and beliefs also appreciate her collections and also wear her designs. Says Rabia: "Our followers and clients have always included non-Muslim women from the West as well as East, who regardless of religion or culture find our designs more suitable to their taste; especially ones that are either body conscious seeking comfort with style or those that like us believe that being stylish isn't about showing skin."
The power of the Muslim spending may be the primary driver of international labels' new love for modest wear but the result is that now many Western and non-Muslim women are understanding the appeal of modest wear. And today covered-up dressing, is in fact, considered chic all over the world. The next few years could see be a turning point for modest wear, and see this category become a part of mainstream international fashion. This is a sign that the West no longer able to simply dictate their fashion sensibilities on the world and perhaps it is now time for the East to be a major influencer of international fashion trends. As Rabia says, "As a 'market' we now have the attention and demand. The world has taken notice and our fashion scene will change drastically in the coming decade."
The writer is Khaleej Times Consulting Fashion Editor