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Regular tie versus bow tie: Which one should you opt for?

Pawan and Ashish of Knights & Lords on which of the two you must pick for an occasion

It's always important to associate what you wear with the purpose of the occasion or the event, and understand the history of the evolution of the garment. The advent of ties or bow ties was with a scarf that was tied to keep the shirt fastened around the neck in the 17th century. This later evolved into the cravat, which was primarily worn within the sartorially mature circles of the French high society during the 18th and 19th centuries. The current bow tie and neck tie have evolved from the neck-wear worn since the 1920s.
Traditionally, the bow tie had a fixed length and was designed as per the size of the wearer's neck. Then came the adjustable versions that offered flexibility. And then, to accommodate the needs of those who wanted to give the effect of wearing a bow tie without necessarily tying one, the option of a pre-tied bow tie, that could be worn around the neck using a clip, was introduced.
There are certain occasions where it is absolutely imperative to wear a bow tie. For instance, black tie events that require one to wear a dinner suit or a tuxedo should be paired with a black bow tie. The extremely formal white tie event, which is high up in the pecking order of formal events, also requires a white bow tie. Another event that has made it popular is horse racing. It is also acceptable to wear one with a formal morning suit.
Lately, the bow tie has made a comeback in many social settings. It is also viewed as a tour de force in sartorial circles where vivid patterns, polka dots, prints and stripes are all paired with suits and blazers. The art then lies in effective pairing of the bow tie with an outfit that aspires to be aesthetically novel but, at the same time, is not outrageously ostentatious.
The modern tie, on the other hand, has been around since the 1920s. Duke of Windsor or King Edward VIII was largely responsible for bringing it into prominence. It is also considered quite likely that his father George V had invented the 'Windsor' knot that was later popularised by the Duke. The Windsor knot gave the tie its fuller appearance around the neck, with the art of knotting it in a particular manner giving it prominence.
Over the past few decades, tie trends saw them being as minimal as two inches or so in blade width during the 1950s and widened upto six inches during the 1960s, before settling to the current day norm of approximately three-and-a-half inches. The two most commonly seen tie knots are the Windsor knot or the Four-in-Hand knot, with some ambitious individuals innovating with one-off creations, such as the Trinity knot and other such knots. Ties are most often available or crafted in silk with new mainstream ones available in wool, linen and cotton fabrics.
The neck tie is the most common neck-wear worn by gentlemen today. It showcases a sense of purpose and adds a level of formality, hence ascertaining the tone of the meeting or the occasion for which it needs to be worn. Wearing a bow tie, however, can be looked upon as a sartorially more adventurous endeavour, which, if pulled off well, can actually have a magnetic effect but also comes with the risk of it going horribly wrong if not thought about and paired well. The decision to wear a bow tie or a neck tie lies more with the occasion one needs to attend along with the ability to pique the interest of the observer to showcase sartorial maturity.
wknd@khaleejtimes.com
Pawan and Ashish are bespoke tailors at Knights & Lords, a bespoke tailoring house in Dubai. They are inspired by the alchemy of craftsmanship and bespoke tradition aimed at re-designing the wearer's inner architecture. They have learnt the traditional craft of bespoke tailoring from Savile Row, London - considered to be the spiritual home of bespoke tailors even today. You can visit them at www.knightsandlords.ae or www.instagram.com/knightsandlords - or email them at bespoke@knightsandlords.com.