FOOD REVIEW: Ethiopia's Gursha is ahead of the curve

GLUTEN FREE. IT is one of those terms which can provoke equally strong reactions on both sides of the argument. In one corner you have the eye-rollers (with whom we're usually alongside) horrified at the little GF symbol next to items on a dessert menu and, facing them, proponents of the dietary requirement banging on for 45 minutes on why the proteins are pure unadulterated evil.
You know where this discussion has never held much weight? Ethiopia. The reason being the nation's staple bread, injera, which is eaten with most meals, never contained any gluten in the first place. And it's absolutely delicious. We think that makes the country a culinary pioneer.
It was a pleasant mild evening when we took a journey to Ethiopian restaurant Gursha at Dubai's vibrant Club Vista Mare on The Palm, though the eatery's inviting atmosphere meant we only wanted to sit inside. The resident DJ spinning a mix of stone cold classics and African beats, the décor, but most of all the staff's friendliness and passion for their authentic Horn of Africa establishment and what it offered dictated our shunning the al fresco option. We didn't want to be too far from the action.
We were almost immediately brought into the swing of things with the starters arriving a couple of minutes in. Three dishes containing sunset shrimp - a wonderful take on creamy dynamite prawns with Ethiopian spices, kitfo on toast - beef tartar on ciabatta and buticha bites - fried chickpea balls served with coriander and lemon yoghurt were all superb. We couldn't find a single fault. Each recipe was diverse, but wouldn't be too adventurous for the more conservative diner. The beef tartar was bursting with tangy flavour and the prawns had a familiar edge but were sufficiently different to warrant their inclusion.
Next up, the incredibly good value Taste of Ethiopia plate for Dhs85 (pictured). A smorgasbord of the portion of the menu titled 'going native', this is where we really got into the aforementioned injera. The spongy sourdough flatbread is perfect for mopping up the fragrant sauces in which much of the meat in Ethiopian cuisine is cooked. Minchit abesh (minced beef in curry sauce), doro wat (spicy chicken curry with cheese and boiled eggs) and gomen be sega (spiced kale and beef. That's right gluten free bread and kale in the same meal!) were devoured. No prisoners were taken. Despite the large serving, it was not a struggle. The meal, while substantial, felt light and the doro wat stole the show with its kick of spice and soft egg. For the overall price, we felt spoilt. Will we head back? What do you think?
david@khaleejtimes.com 

• Food and Dining