All you need to know about sourdough bread

Freshly baked sourdough bread became a viral trend during the stressful months of the lock-down. For someone like me who has been baking sourdough bread for quite a few decades, it is gratifying to see its rise in popularity.

Baking artisanal sourdough bread is hard work, dedication, and a lot of patience. In fact, today’s artisan bakers who hand roll and shape sourdough loaves, rolls, baguettes, and flutes are heirs to a 5000-year-old tradition of mixing flour and water, and then using the fermented mixture to leaven bread. The ten-step process that leads to a perfect sourdough bread demands total mindfulness, something we can all use today more than ever.

Stone mills for slow wheat: For good bread, you need good flour. Apart from choosing organic flour in the first place, I have always strongly insisted to have the grains stone milled. The human race invented the millstones even before bread as we know it, and I believe it’s still the only way to grind wheat for bread.

It’s very hard to find traditional, slow turning stone mills, but we need them for better flour. One moving millstone turns on a stationary one, which is how the grains get crushed, yet all of their valuable parts (the germ, bran and endosperm) remain intact. Millstones grind at a slow rate, so the friction only produces a low heat while the nutrients are kept inside the grain. This is healthier and tastes better.

The secret ingredient: Sourdough bread is made with a natural starter. This is a well-maintained culture of wild yeast cells, bacteria, and acid. Flour is mixed with salt and warm water and kept at an ambient temperature. Carefully nurtured with a daily ‘feed’ of flour, water and salt, the starter takes a few days to ferment.

A mature starter or levain, the natural leavener, provides the characteristic tang and texture of sourdough. Unlike commercial bread, sourdough will be different according to where it was created and by whom. For home bakers this can be truly a test of patience, but the results are worth all the effort.

Smell the bread, crunch its crust: After the bread dough is sufficiently proofed, it is divided into pieces of the proper size and shaped. The traditional bread which I grew up watching my aunt make in our kitchen in Belgium comes in four shapes: the baguette (stick), the boule (round), the bâtard (a football-like shape) and the pan loaf (a blunt-ended bâtard).

Once properly risen, the loaves are first scored with a lame (a speciality razor blade) to allow them to expand fully in the oven. They are baked in a preheated Dutch oven which allows the steam to be captured and which gives the bread its golden crust. Et voilà: a finished product with the attractive just-baked aroma and a dark caramel crust. However, a bread fresh out of the oven may be irresistible, its subtle flavours are best tasted once the bread is allowed to cool and ripen. For the impatient: baguettes can be eaten within the hour.

wknd@khaleejtimes.com