A day in paradise: A guide to island-hopping in Fiji

The sea water is ice cold and luminous emerald with the sunshine filtering in from the overhead vent, casting mysterious shadows in this cathedral-like space. I was initially scared to let go of the rails and jump into this natural swimming pool, hidden in the bowels of the tall limestone mountain, but I am glad I did.

I am in the Yasawa islands, a string of around 20 volcanic islands to the northwest of the main island Viti Levu, in the archipelago nation of Fiji, in the South Pacific. The beauty of these islands with clear waters, sandy coves, virgin beaches, small villages and majestic volcanic outcrops have made them favourite spots for Hollywood movies, like the 80s hit The Blue Lagoon and the reality TV series Survivor. I am taking a small boat cruise around these islands with Captain Cook Cruises on Reef Endeavour, a small-sized vessel with comfortable rooms, friendly staff, a small swimming pool, lounges, a library, and delicious buffets.

Reached by walking from the beach, through knee-deep water and then climbing a steep flight of stairs, the Sawa-I-Lau limestone caves are the subject of many local legends. One tells the story of a giant hawk that lived in the Sawa-i-Lau cave, who carried off a princess called Naiobasali and how her prince, Rokoulu, avenged her death by killing the hawk. It is said that the winds Rokoulu summoned still blow in the Sawa-i-Lau caves. Swimming in the caves feels ethereal, almost a spiritual experience, with the silence and the play of darkness and light. If you are brave, you can swim through a secret, underwater entrance to the second, smaller cavern, but I decide to stick to the trodden path.

We started the cruise from Port Denarau marina, sailing to Tivau island, with deserted beaches, and loungers, where we first made our snorkelling forays and learned to plant coral tied on to pieces of rope, and attach it to metal frames in the ocean as our contribution to regeneration of the reef.

Our days on our floating home have a comfortable rhythm — breakfasts and met maps and weather forecasts in the lounge bar, followed by a trip on the smaller tender boats, with the wind in my hair, and salty sea spray on my skin, to snorkelling spots in the bay, or basking on a pristine palm fringed beach, where there is room for all kinds of people — aquatically challenged ones like me who are hesitant snorkelers and others who dive like pros to see the wonders of the Pacific Ocean, which feels like a gargantuan aquarium in these parts — from iridescent soft corals in a million hues (think baby pink to purple), teeming with schools of psychedelic tropical fish in rainbow colours — parrot fish, clown, angel to even black tipped reef sharks. Abraham, the marine biologist, is a patient teacher telling us about the ecology of the reefs, guiding hesitant swimmers, and making every day an unforgettable adventure.

On the white sand beaches, while some bask on mats and enjoy doing nothing, the active ones have kayaks, stand-up paddle boards and hiking trails to keep them busy. I wade through small tide pools, with other guests, finding hermit crabs and clams. Some prefer to see the coral reefs without getting wet, from glass-bottomed boats, others take the afternoon snorkelling trips too. Dinners are lively affairs with themes like white and floral nights. We interact with a diverse cross section of people from around the world, students on a class trip from Australia with their teachers, an Italian family celebrating their parents’ 50th anniversary, a German couple who drive rescue vehicles and are on a three-month holiday through Fiji and other Polynesian islands like Samoa and Tahiti.

wknd@khaleejtimes.com