Chef Benson Peng on balancing the seven flavours of Sichuan cuisine

The Taste of Shangri-La food festival is until October 30

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Karishma Nandkeolyar

Published: Sun 20 Oct 2024, 6:54 PM

There’s a delicate dance that takes place in Sichuan cuisine as chefs introduce players to the plate. Seven essential flavours - sweet, sour, numbing, spicy, bitter, fragrant/aromatic, and salty - mould themselves according to a recipe to create a production that the chef can be proud of.

Chef Benson Peng, Head Chef of Sichuanese Cuisine, Shangri-La Hotel Chengdu, who is in the UAE as part of the Taste of Shangri-La food festival that will run until October 30, is known for his bold flavours and innovative techniques. He tells City Times in an interview, “The UAE has been a source of fresh inspiration, particularly when it comes to food presentation.”

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“Their innovative plating techniques have sparked new ideas in my own cooking, particularly with Chinese and Sichuan cuisine. It’s exciting to fuse traditional flavours with contemporary presentation styles, creating dishes that offer both a visual and sensory delight,” he adds.

Here’s a look at why cooking for Peng is about more than just an essential skill, his inspiration and his pet peeve in the kitchen:

What got you interested in cooking?

My passion for cooking is rooted in an ancient Chinese saying, “Food is the essence of life”. This phrase perfectly captures how deeply food has influenced my life, and this connection has always felt natural. Cooking isn’t just a skill—it's an extension of who I am.

I’m thrilled that through the ‘Taste of Shangri-La’ festival, I have the opportunity to bring the rich flavours of Sichuan cuisine to life in both Dubai and Abu Dhabi.

What do you like best about cooking?

What I love most about cooking, particularly with Chinese and Sichuan cuisine, is the balance between tradition and innovation. There’s something deeply fulfilling about preserving the heritage of culinary techniques while still pushing the boundaries to create something new. It’s about honouring the past without being constrained by it and I constantly strive to find ways to innovate while keeping the essence of the cuisine alive.

You use innovative techniques to cook traditional recipes. Can you tell us a bit about that? Why not go the traditional route?

I believe innovation can enhance traditional recipes rather than replace them. By using modern techniques, I try to elevate classic dishes and align them with the evolving tastes of today’s diners while still preserving the essence of the cuisine.

Tradition is incredibly important, and I fully embrace it, but I also think it's vital to adapt and grow. For example, during my time in the UAE for the ‘Taste of Shangri-La’ festival, I prepared a reimagined version of a traditional boiled fish dish, making it more refined and accessible.

Sichuan cuisine has seven essential flavors – what’s your secret to keeping them all balanced in all the dishes?

The key to balancing the seven essential flavours in Sichuan cuisine lies in understanding and applying the [rules of] “24 flavours” of Sichuan cooking. These 24 flavour profiles act as a guide, helping me layer and harmonise the tastes in each dish. I try to strike a perfect balance with each dish and combine and adjust flavours like spice, sourness, sweetness, and umami to create that perfect balance.

Tell us about your signature dishes - Simmered Mandarin Fish with Vegetables and Assorted Mushroom in Spicy Chili Oil – and how you came up with them.

My signature dish, Simmered Mandarin Fish with Vegetables and Assorted Mushrooms in Spicy Chili Oil, is an elevated take on the traditional boiled fish fillets. I wanted to improve both the texture and flavor of the dish while maintaining its essence. Instead of using a spiny fish, I opted for mandarin fish, which is softer and has fewer bones, making it more enjoyable to eat. For the spice element, I replaced the traditional chilli powder with dried pepper slices and a mix of dried red and green peppercorns, giving the dish a more layered and aromatic heat.

You also teach cooking classes – what’s the number one mistake you see amateurs make?

In my classes, I often notice that a lot of participants follow recipes without understanding the reason behind each method. Knowing why you're using a certain technique—whether it's for flavour, texture, or timing—makes all the difference.

Once you grasp the purpose, you can adapt and improve your skills, rather than just following instructions blindly.

Any pointers for amateur chefs?

My advice would be simple: keep learning and practicing. The more you experiment and refine your techniques, the better you'll become. Don’t be afraid to make mistakes—they’re part of the learning process. Also, try to understand the “why” behind every method or ingredient choice. The more you immerse yourself in cooking, the more natural and enjoyable it becomes.

What is your pet peeve?

I’m generally a positive and happy person, so I don't let small annoyances get to me. If something bothers me, I prefer to either address it head-on or find a solution quickly.

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Karishma Nandkeolyar

Published: Sun 20 Oct 2024, 6:54 PM

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