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Indikaya's chef Ajay Chopra on his recipe for success in Dubai

And why he's sceptical about trends like molecular gastronomy

SELL: Chef Ajay Chopra gives the guide to cracking the complex yet dynamic gastronomic scene of the city as he launches his new restaurant

Chef Ajay Chopra recalls an interesting anecdote from his London days in the late 2000s when he used to head the premium Indian restaurant, Mint Leaf of London. One of his close friends had a stint with celebrity chef Marcus Wareing, a protege of Gordon Ramsay. Wareing was a perfectionist who was at the workplace at sharp 7am every day to work at the butchery. One day, Chopra’s friend reached at 7.10 am. He was politely requested to go back.

On another occasion, Wareing was asked why he chose to work on the butchery himself when he should be overseeing other important stuff. The chef’s retort was: “This is where the money is, mate!” The context: in a restaurant where the emphasis is on using the finest ingredients, even a small mistake can have significant financial repercussions. “Successful chefs take every aspect of their craft very seriously. You have to be razor sharp with your product, pricing and staff,” says Chopra, known as much for his YouTube videos simplifying Indian cuisines as for his stint as a Masterchef India judge.

These insights into precision and perfection, gleaned from his experiences in one of the world’s culinary capitals, have greatly influenced Chopra’s two-decade career in hospitality. Now, as he embarks on his latest venture, Indikaya, at the Shangri-La Hotel in Dubai, his experience shines through. Combining ‘India’ and ‘Kaya’ (meaning soul), Indikaya is a celebration of progressive Indian cuisine. The menu draws inspiration from the diverse flavours across India, in particular the under-represented regions of the East and North East, but presents them in innovative, Tapas-style dishes.

Standing out in a crowd

You might wonder: Does Dubai really need another progressive Indian restaurant? Isn’t it just adding to the already-burgeoning gastronomic landscape of the city? A report by Dubai Economy and Tourism (DET) revealed that the emirate is home to 13,000 restaurants and cafes, making it the second densest restaurant market in the world, after Paris. In 2023, Dubai was ranked among the world’s top 10 cities for foodies, with several names making it to prestigious lists like the World’s 50 Best Restaurants and MENA’s best. And let’s not forget it has a bunch of Michelin-starred wonders as well. So the competition, to put it mildly, is intense.

However, Chopra remains optimistic. Having long envisioned a high-energy bar serving Indian cuisine with an international twist, he believes the city’s dining scene is ripe for new concepts. “People have realised that Dubai isn’t just about real estate or entertainment; it’s a great place to live and dine in. The quality of life is excellent and high-net-worth individuals from around the world are moving here. The more people shift their homes, the more the food and beverage industry flourishes. I see growth in this sector for another four to five years,” he says.

So how can a restaurant stand out amid the crowd? Chopra observes that the Dubai dining scene is polarised between humble, no-frills eateries and extravagant, glamorous restaurants with theatrics and performances. “You are either serving the soul or something exquisite,” he explains. “Both markets exist in abundance until there’s a levelling up of the extremes. But if you don’t adapt and stay relevant, you risk falling behind. We need to be edgy to stay competitive because the competition is that intense.”

The next important point is to identify and understand your audience. Once again Chopra recalls his early days at Mint Leaf of London, where despite revamping the menu, the restaurant struggled to attract diners. Frustrated, he sought advice from fellow Indian chef Atul Kochchar. “He gave me a simple tip - when in Rome, do as the Romans do.” Londoners, it turned out, preferred their lamb and fish served traditionally, not as robust curries. This shift in perspective helped Chopra refine his approach, focusing on subtle flavours and presentation, which significantly improved the restaurant’s performance. Mint Leaf of London’s weekly revenue jumped from 21,000 pounds to 85,000 pounds a week by the year’s end, and Chopra soon earned a spot among the top 10 Indian chefs in London.

Perhaps that’s the reason he is sceptical about trends like molecular gastronomy, which he feels were more about spectacle than substance. “There’s a science behind it that needs to be understood. People were using trends like nitrogen in food for flair, not for its scientific benefits, so it was bound to fizzle out,” he explains.

Why Postmodernism in Food Will Work

The current trend Chopra believes will endure is postmodernism—a return to solid techniques over gimmicks. He cites the example of Noma, the legendary Copenhagen-based Michelin-starred restaurant that has gone back to the World War years of 1920s, when due to food wastage and shortage, fermentation was a big trend. Noma now makes a Mushroom Garum, a bold versatile and flavourful sauce that’s fermented for 11 days and has beautiful umami. It’s currently the hottest product for food enthusiasts worldwide.

Chopra’s own approach at Indikaya reflects this blend of tradition and modernity. His menu features dishes like the Bengali Haddock, inspired by British fish and chips but with a unique Indian twist. The halibut paturi is marinated, crisp-fried, and paired with an aromatic curry leaf tartare. Another standout is the kaffir lime chicken tikka, which retains its classic charred flavor but is enhanced with kaffir lime and pineapple chutney for a contemporary touch. “This is what I mean by using classic techniques with a modern twist,” he says.

Ultimately, Chopra believes it’s the globalisation of food that makes a lasting impact. By bridging cultures with innovation and experimentation, Indian chefs are elevating the cuisine on the international stage. Is that what is getting them the Michelin accolades? Perhaps, reflects Chopra. “When it comes to Michelin or World’s Best Restaurants list, it’s a way of representing a cuisine and craft on a global stage which boosts the entire trade. I feel this is a fantastic and opportune time to make our craft shine. But ultimately, what does a chef thrive on? The smile that a customer gives after eating a meal. That’s what I cherish the most.”

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