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Restaurant Review: La Niña plates up bold, beautiful flavours

Food, when done right, can be as soulful as it is satisfying

Published: Sun 1 Dec 2024, 5:41 PM

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Stepping into La Niña feels like entering a storybook, one where Iberian and Latino cultures merge. The terrace reopening, complete with a flamenco performance by Eduardo Guerrero, set the tone for an evening that promised something special. And when the food started arriving, it didn’t just meet expectations, it smashed them.

The night began with olivas marinadas + pan de casa, warm house-baked bread paired with a smoky chilli butter that felt like a hug on a plate. Then came the ensalada Niña, a fresh mix of greens, roasted corn, and Cotija cheese—simple, bright, and delicious.

Things got interesting with the tartar de atún. The yellowfin tuna, drizzled with a habanero-truffle dressing, was silky and light, with just the right kick of spice. The crunch from the rice crisps sealed the deal. And the bolinhos de bacalhau, crispy cod fritters with saffron mojo and olive oil aioli, they’re what comfort food dreams are made of.

The real showstopper, though, was the coca de trufa. A crisp base loaded with creamy Mahón cheese, rich wagyu coppa, and bursts of sweetness from roasted grapes, it’s the kind of dish you think about long after the meal’s over.

For mains, the Salmón Al Josper delivered perfectly smoky salmon, balanced with sweet achiote honey and a creamy poblano sauce. A side of Romesco broccolini added freshness and a nutty twist.

And let’s not forget the Frango Piri-Piri. This lime-brined baby chicken was juicy, charred, and full of zesty flavour, with a smooth coriander crema that tied it all together.

Finally, the flan arrived to steal the show. Manchego cheese in a dessert? Yes, and it works beautifully. Add caramel and guava to the mix, and you’ve got a dessert that’s equal parts daring and delicious.

La Niña isn’t just a place to eat, it’s an adventure in bold flavours and cultural storytelling. Whether it’s your first visit or your fifth, it’s a reminder that food, when done right, can be as soulful as it is satisfying.

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