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Pakistani designer Mariyam D Rizwan: 'The UAE offers endless opportunities for those with the drive to succeed'

Rizwan on why she ditched the conventional route and decided to create her own way forward

Fearless creativity and unshakable self-belief are crucial when you choose to carve your own path rather than follow an expected one. Mariyam D. Rizwan made a bold and courageous decision to step away from her family’s business, driven by a relentless passion for fashion and an unwavering determination to follow her true calling. While for many designers, a celebrity endorsement or international stamp of approval may be a major milestone, Mariyam believes that the focus should remain on the craft — and everything else will follow.

After studying Print Design at Central Saint Martins and gaining invaluable experience with global brands such as Ted Baker, H&M, and Alexander McQueen, Mariyam recognised it was time to pivot and apply her expertise in a more challenging market.

A few years ago she launched her brand Mariyam D. Rizwan, which quickly made its mark and garnered public attention. Since then, she has collaborated with stars like Ayeza Khan, Sajal Aly, Saba Qamar, Maya Ali, and many others, solidifying her presence in the fashion world.

Mariyam explores the business of fashion and explains how she ensures her signature designs remain in the spotlight, even when the star wearing them takes centre stage. Here’s what she had to say about...

Staying authentic

“Bridging the gap between personal creativity and market trends is always a challenge. It’s essential to understand the market without sacrificing your vision. What I envision and what I actually create are often two distinct kinds of work, and I feel fortunate to have the opportunity to cater to both. If I solely focused on my personal goal, I wouldn’t be able to sustain the business. Conversely, if I concentrated only on commercial demands, my creativity would go to waste. I believe that if you truly understand the demands of the market, you can strategically weave in elements that align with current trends, all while preserving the essence of your creativity. By infusing a modern twist into your work or experimenting with popular styles, you can stay relevant while remaining authentic to your unique artistic voice.”

Brand comparisons

“I don’t believe comparison is fair, as the industry is incredibly diverse. Each of us has our own unique journey and strengths that shape the niche we’ve carved for ourselves. I take pride in my distinct aesthetic, which has guided me along my personal path. While some may focus solely on fulfilling orders, for me, it’s about embracing the entire creative journey and finding joy in the process of bringing ideas to life.”

Working with celebrities

“While I appreciate being recognised by many of Pakistan’s top actors, working with celebrities presents its own set of challenges. They often have a specific image they wish to maintain, which can make it difficult to push creative boundaries. There are multiple layers of approval for every design, which can sometimes limit the creative process. For example, drapery is often avoided because it tends to be too body-hugging, which may not align with a particular image.

Over time, I’ve developed a strong working relationship with several stars, allowing for a more comfortable collaboration. Creativity and comfort don’t always align, and sometimes pushing boundaries is necessary to allow for true creative expression. That freedom can be limited when a celebrity is hesitant to experiment. However, Maya Ali was particularly open to exploring new ideas, which made our campaign a success.”

Her style icon

“For me, Audrey Hepburn stands out as a timeless icon whose influence still shapes fashion today. Becoming a style icon is about more than just trends — it’s about leaving a lasting impact on future generations. It’s about having a unique presence and the ability to express individuality with grace and authenticity.”

Stylists

“Today, many stylists tend to borrow ideas rather than create something truly original. In one of my shoots, however, the stylist did an exceptional job by creatively using the same fabric on the shoes and adding brooches, transforming the entire look into a true work of art. Styling should go beyond simply sourcing clothes; it’s essential for the stylist to collaborate on the vision and ensure the model’s comfort.”

Bollywood and designers

“In Pakistan, the association with Bollywood or international celebrities often becomes a benchmark for a brand’s success. It can certainly elevate a brand’s status, but I don’t feel it's the sole defining factor of whether a brand has “made it”. Pakistani designers who focus on craftsmanship, innovation, and authenticity can carve out a strong niche without relying on endorsements.”

Expanding beyond clothing

“While we initially started with a regional focus, our goal is to expand globally. We see tremendous potential in reaching international markets and establishing a strong global presence. This growth will be driven by a direct-to-consumer e-commerce platform, along with strategic partnerships with retailers in key fashion capitals around the world. The UAE offers endless opportunities for those with the drive to succeed.”

On success

“All of this is reassuring and confirms that you are moving in the right direction. When A-listers approach you for an event or appearance, it’s a testament to your growing reputation. And when a major magazine asks you to do a cover with a superstar and fashion journalists praise you on record, it’s truly elating—it means the industry is recognising your capabilities.

“The fashion industry is incredibly cutthroat; you are only as good as your last collection. That’s why I firmly believe in keeping an eye on what works and finding ways to make it a little edgier, based on your unique exposure and education. The fusion you bring is the real value you offer, or in my case, the value I bring to the cutting board.”

Sadiq Saleem is a UAE-based writer and can be contacted on his Instagram handle @sadiqidas.