What are the most frequently asked skincare queries in UAE? Top dermatologists offer insights

The climate in countries such as the UAE and the broader Middle East region poses particular challenges for skin health, aggravated by intense heat, high UV exposure, and low humidity. While sun damage is a primary concern, with strong UV rays leading to sunburns, premature ageing like wrinkles and age spots, dehydration and skin dryness are also common issues that people face due to low humidity levels, causing skin to feel tight and flaky. Acne is another skin concern that thrives in hot climates due to increased sebum production and pore-clogging from sweat.

Managing skin health in hot climates demands proactive sun protection, hydration, and tailored skincare routines to counteract the environmental stressors of heat, UV exposure, and humidity levels effectively. As a result, we reached out to top dermatologists across the UAE to uncover the most common skincare queries from their patients and how one can maintain fresh, glowing skin despite these arid conditions.

1) What products constitute an ideal skin care routine?

While it’s undoubtedly one of the most frequently asked questions in a dermatologist's office, there is no one-size-fits-all answer to this question! “In clinical practice, we advocate for products that are customised to suit your specific skin type and concerns,” says Dr Maria Thomas, dermatologist and head of department of laser and aesthetics at Zia Medical Centre, Dubai.

One of her recommendations involves using a 10 to 15% Vitamin C serum layered under an SPF 50 sunscreen every morning. High-quality Vitamin C formulations containing ingredients like ferulic acid work effectively to prevent and lighten existing dark spots. “This combination enhances sun protection with the antioxidant properties of Vitamin C, which help combat signs of premature ageing,” says Dr Thomas.

In the evening, applying a retinol treatment two or three times a week (depending on your skin type) can further support skin health. “Retinol is a versatile compound known for stimulating collagen production, reducing inflammation, and regulating sebum production. Clinically, these actions contribute to firmer, younger-looking, and smoother skin appearance. But it should be administered with the support of a dermatologist," she adds.

2) What is causing my acne?

Acne is influenced by several factors, including stress, medications, hormones, and clogged pores. “Skin can become more susceptible to acne and breakouts in warmer climates due to increased sebum production as the skin tries to maintain hydration. Additionally, excessive sweating in hot climates can contribute to breakouts,” says Dr Sophie Shotter, an award-winning aesthetic, hormone, and skin specialist.

“While essential for everyday skincare, SPF can occasionally trigger breakouts if the formulation isn't suitable for your skin type. I recommend the Intradermology Synergy 6 sunscreen for my patients, as it is lightweight and absorbs beautifully.”

3) Can hormones cause acne, and how?

Hormones can also be a primary and often unaddressed cause for acne because they influence oil production levels in the skin. “Hormonal changes, particularly during puberty and menopause, can significantly impact acne development,” says Dr Shotter, who holds a residency at Biolite Dubai.

“Factors such as stress, diet, and genetics also play key roles in hormonal fluctuations. Treating hormonal acne can be challenging. I recommend treatments like chemical peels, the Aviclear Laser, and blue LED light therapy, all of which can be very effective. However, addressing the root cause of hormonal imbalance may require systemic hormone balancing treatments and lifestyle changes as well,” she adds.

4) How can I effectively treat acne scars?

This question is often asked because acne scars can be stubborn and affect one's confidence. Several factors can influence the likelihood and severity of acne scarring, says Dr Aiza Jamil, leading consultant dermatologist in Abu Dhabi. “Genetics play a significant role, as individuals with a family history of scarring are at a higher risk. Additionally, skin type is a critical factor, with darker skin tones often being more susceptible to hypertrophic and keloid scars.”

The severity of acne itself is another determinant; more severe or cystic acne tends to increase the risk of scarring. “Delaying or ineffective treatment of acne can exacerbate scarring, as can the habit of picking or squeezing pimples, which worsens inflammation and heightens the likelihood of scarring.”

Though it can pose a significant challenge, there are several treatment options available to enhance skin appearance. According to Dr Jamil, here are some key pointers on acne scarring and potential treatments:

Types of acne scars

Understanding the types of acne scars is crucial for choosing the most effective treatment and dermatologists can provide tailored treatment based on the specific types of scars.

Atrophic scars:

- Ice Pick Scars: Deep, narrow scars that extend into the dermis.

- Boxcar Scars: Broad, box-like depressions with sharp edges.

- Rolling Scars: Wave-like depressions that give the skin a rolling appearance.

Hypertrophic scars: Raised scars that remain within the boundaries of the original wound.

Keloid scars: Raised scars that extend beyond the original wound boundaries, often more common in people with darker skin tones.

Treating acne scars

“Often, a combination of treatments is necessary to achieve the best results. A dermatologist can provide a tailored treatment plan based on the type, severity, and location of the acne scars,” says Dr Jamil.

When treating acne scars, topical treatments can significantly improve skin texture and appearance. Alongside procedures like chemical peels, microneedling, laser therapy, and dermabrasion, she recommends incorporating the following topical treatments:

Retinoids: These enhance cell turnover, reducing the visibility of scars and improving overall skin texture.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs): AHAs exfoliate the skin, stimulating the growth of new skin cells and helping to fade scars.

Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs): BHAs penetrate deep into the skin, aiding in exfoliation and reducing the appearance of scars.

Silicone Gels: These are effective for hypertrophic and keloid scars, flattening and softening them for smoother skin texture.

These treatments, combined with professional advice from a dermatologist, can help effectively manage and reduce the appearance of acne scars.

5) How can I prevent pigmentation?

Pigmentation is frequently caused by sun exposure and poses a significant concern for many patients based in the Middle East, where hotter climates and year-round sun exacerbate this issue. “Pigmentation presents itself as uneven, darker skin blotches that can appear not only on the face but also on the body,” says Dr Shotter, adding that the main areas of concern are typically the forehead, cheeks, and around the mouth.

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