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Tailored to flatter

One size does not fit all, and this is especially true for suits. But you don't need to alter your fine self to meet generic expectations. Suit expert 8th Lining shares tips to help you achieve the perfect fit no matter your body type. So, if you are...

Short: The aim is to create the appearance of one long line from head to toe. A neat, tapered trouser worn slightly higher on the hip adds inches to the legs. By contrast, a big break (the amount of trouser that falls onto the shoe) or a drop crotch will shorten them. Balance this with a shorter length on the jacket that elongates the legs, while the deep V-shape created by a two-button jacket ensures the torso isn't too diminutive.

Avoid belts and wearing a suit as separates, which will create obvious separation and stop the eyes from flowing from top to bottom. Pinstripes do the opposite by directing the eye up and down, but careful that they are not too thick or widely spaced. Similarly, micro-checks are better than large windowpanes.

Extra shirt cuff peeking out from under the arm of the jacket can also help your suit look proportionally smaller as well as slimmer lapels. At the same time, you want structure in the shoulders for balance, so a diagonal, peak lapel provides a vertical line and a bit of horizontal weight.

Tall: Those in this category have the opposite solution with the aim to break up the space between the head and toes. The trousers should break (cleanly, though) on the shoes, as any hint of ankle will make it look like the suit has shrunk, as would short sleeves. Your jacket should also be on the longer side to cut your leg line.

An extra ticket pocket (a small flapped opening usually above the right hip pocket) will look cluttered, as will wearing a pocket square. Same with patterns that send the eye sideways like big checks.

Wearing separates will definitely help in looking less lofty. Mixing and matching trousers and blazers breaks up a tall frame. You can even further this by adding a belt.

Skinny: There is no need to go overly tapered or skinny fit - the purpose of tailoring is to flatter and disguise any quirks or figurations, not accentuate them. In this case, the goal is to add some weight to the look, meaning busy patterns, pleated trousers with cuffs and even heavier fabrics like tweed and wool will give the impression of bulk. Checks and textured weaves can add presence too.

A double-breasted jacket, with its overlapping material at the front and buttons that encourage lateral thinking, will give visual gains. You might also want standard rather than slim lapels to counteract your rakishness, and maybe a bit of extra shoulder padding to keep everything broadly in proportion.

Large: Larger men would want to create a long - and, crucially, lean - line. Stay well away from large checks as they shorten the silhouette. A narrow pinstripe on a slimming darker base gives a longer look. Opt for a two-button jacket and high-waisted pair of trousers, which would elongate and narrow accordingly. Again, a peak lapel can contribute to verticality, while its width is more proportional.

Lighter fabrics like hopsack or cotton can take a few optical pounds off. Avoid the common mistake of going baggy to try and hide the girth, as this will only exaggerate it. The jacket should skim the shoulders. You can nip it in to give the illusion of a narrow waist (slanted hip pockets can also perform the same trick).

Athletic: It's a question of proportion - striking the right balance between a tapered waist and the correct fit across broad shoulders. Tailoring is designed to emphasise your form in the same way that the gym does. Cuts with soft, natural shoulders tend to work best.

In a similar vein, aggressively tapered trousers - a very modern trend - are a no-no. Balance is always more elegant. If anything, you want to add bulk to your bottom half with details such as pleats, which will also make room for your squatter's glutes, quads and hams (as will a larger rise - the gap between the waistband and crotch seam). When it comes to pattern and colour, there's no such restrictions.

Visit 8thlining.com for a selection of quality made to measure suits.