London Diaries: How to make the most of summer in England

Summer in London comes with certain expectations. The odd rain shower certainly, but also sunshine and warmth. Picnics and parties and music festivals. Light gleaming in the sky until ten o’clock at night. The kind of thing that Virginia Woolf describes in Mrs Dalloway. A lark! A plunge!

But not this year. As the world suffers record hot temperatures, London experienced one of its wettest and gloomiest Julys. And yet, people have persevered with their social calendars. They’ve learned to cram as much ‘summer’ as possible into each moment. They make do, and their persistence often yields sweet and wonderful results.

Over a weekend, two girlfriends and I visited Hampstead Heath, an ancient park in North London. With its hills and heathery fields, it evokes the countryside more than a stop on the tube. Despite the drizzle, we beelined for the swimming ponds, watching for celebrities along the way — Harry Styles owns a house nearby and often bathes in the cold murkiness.

He’s not alone in this. Post-pandemic, many Londoners have embraced wild swimming in rivers, lakes, and ponds. It’s a unique feeling. When I first plunged in, the water felt so cold it was as though someone was constricting my neck and holding my shoulders down. I gasped for breath. But a few laps accustomed me. I started enjoying the rain patter and buzzing mosquitos. The mud squelched under my feet. I rested under some trees for a moment, absorbing it all. I was in London, and yet, I was also in the wild.

We emerged from the movie to glistening sunshine. A reward for our efforts? Perhaps. Either way, it felt miraculous and special. That, I think, is the gift of this London summer.