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Singapore: The big little city

Singapore woos high-fliers, history buffs, and foodies in one tiny island setting

Singapore was once famous for three things: The banning of chewing gum, mandatory flushing of public toilets and the caning of American youth Michael Fay for car vandalism in 1994.

It has since shed some of its inhibitions as Asia’s “fine city”, and diversified away from an economy heavy on manufacturing and banking.

While Monaco or Barcelona it is not, tropical Singapore is now known as a top-class destination, the venue for the world’s first Formula One night race and the bachelor playground of Facebook co-founder Eduardo Saverin.

Clean and safe, the prosperous city-state is also a magnet for high-end shoppers and one of the most diverse food capitals in the world. Here are tips for getting the most out of a trip to Singapore.

HISTORY, CULTURE & NATURE

History buffs and travellers with relatives who were part of the Allied forces are often drawn to the World War II sites around the island. A good place to start is the tranquil Changi Museum, which documents the lives of prisoners of war during the Japanese occupation. Then make your way south to Fort Siloso on Sentosa island, before taking a short train ride to the stark but stately Kranji War Memorial. The Asian Civilisations Museum at 1 Empress Place showcases culture and history from around the region.

People intrigued by the colourful, energetic culture of Chinese traders who settled in Malacca, Penang and Singapore centuries ago will have a rewarding time at the intimate Peranakan Museum at 39 Armenian Street. For tourists game for a spectacle, join the male devotees celebrating the fire-walking festival at the Sri Mariamman Temple each October. The temple, Singapore’s oldest, is in the most unlikely of places — Chinatown. Visit the Sultan Mosque in the Kampong Glam enclave near the city centre to bask in the glory of the Malay aristocracy of old. Then retire to nearby Arab Street, to marvel at the patrons and their shisha pipes.

FOOD, GLORIOUS FOOD

Singapore prides itself on being a food haven, and for good reason. A morning excursion to Tiong Bahru market, in the heart of Singapore’s oldest public housing estate, is a must-do. Admire the area’s art deco charm as you sink your teeth into crispy, thin toast covered with kaya — a jam made from coconut milk, eggs and pandan leaf — and sip coffee in quaint porcelain cups. For lunch, 
savour a plate of chicken rice, one of Singapore’s iconic offerings, at Boon Tong Kee at 425 River Valley Road. Or try some laksa — a coconut-based curry with rice noodles, shrimp and fish cake. Foodies quarrel endlessly over that perfect bowl of laksa but a good version can be had at 328 Katong Laksa at 51 East Coast Road in the Tanjong Katong area. Dinner would be a toss-up between chilli crab, the third iconic dish, and Peranakan cuisine, a happy outcome of Chinese, Malay and Indian influences. A favourite chilli crab destination is Red House Seafood at the East Coast Seafood Centre. On a different night, sample Peranakan duck soup, honey meat and spicy beef at Ivin’s at 19 Binjai Park.

Brunch and tea? You can have eggs Benedict or Florentine, plus quiche, burgers and portions of cake at PS Cafe at 28B Harding Road. Popular on weekends, the cafe boasts a lovely outdoor sitting area with a leafy backdrop.

Those craving dim sum will find fulfilment at Lei Garden Restaurant at Chijmes — a collection of eateries and boutiques in a historic former convent at 30 Victoria Street. Challenge your palate with frog legs a la Kung Pao chicken at Lion City Frog Porridge at 235 Geylang Road (Lorong 9). If you are keen to try the king of fruits, the pungent and fleshy durian can be savoured at many street stalls in Geylang.

Beyond Chinese, Malay and Indian cuisine, Singapore offers everything from boeuf bourguignon to Vietnamese spring rolls. For hearty French fare, there’s Le Bistrot du Sommelier at 53 Armenian Street near the Peranakan Museum. Diners with deeper wallets will take to Joël Robuchon Restaurant at Resorts World Sentosa.

For Italian fare, Basilico at The Regent has a terrific lunch buffet, OTTO Ristorante at 28 Maxwell Road is a chic venue and nearby Capricci at 27 Tanjong Pagar Road has a more casual vibe. For authentic ramen, try Keisuke Tokyo at Parco Millenia. Sushi lovers flock to Shinji by Kanesaka at Raffles Hotel. A less expensive but elegant venue is Aoki at Shaw Centre in the Orchard Road shopping district.

NIGHTLIFE

Let’s start at the top. The 1-Altitude Gallery, which claims to be the world’s highest al fresco outlet, commands a 360-degree view of the business district and Marina Bay. The 63^rd floor of One Raffles Place competes for high-elevation revellers with nearby KU DE TA on the 57^th floor of the Marina Bay Sands Skypark across the bay. Pangaea, also at Marina Bay Sands, is frequented by the well-heeled and conspicuously rich. Even if you don’t have thousands to blow on luxury beverages, it’s a worthy diversion with its self-conscious glamour and African Safari theme.

Equally bold but more European is Attica at River Valley Road in the Clarke Quay area. No business suits please.

Revellers and those thirsty for more adventure can also explore numerous attractions at nearby Duxton Hill and Club Street. Catering to a visibly younger crowd is Home Club at Upper Circular Road in the Boat Quay area. It’s almost like a noisy dormitory but in a good, fun way.