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Satwa: A bustling low-rise suburb in Dubai

Dubai - The vibrant neighbourhood is home to the historic Union House in the UAE.

Dubai's Al Satwa neighbourhood, which was once known as a suburb dominated by the Bloushi tribe and Iranians, has now burgeoned into a bustling community with a growing Indian, Pakistani, Bangladeshi, Filipino and Arab population. In fact, due to a large concentration of Filipinos in the area, it is often referred to as mini-Manila by the Filipino community.
With a population of around 40,000, the vibrant neighbourhood that is bordered by Jumeirah and Bur Dubai is also home to one of the emirate's most important landmarks - the Union House. Located at the far end of the main 2nd December Street (formerly Diyafah Street), Union House played an important role in the establishment of the UAE.
Two of the busiest streets of the area are 2nd December Street and Al Satwa Road, which are lined up with cafes, restaurants, tailors and garment shops, supermarkets and electronic and mobile shops.
As one approaches the Satwa roundabout, what immediately catches the eye are the colourful murals that cover the buildings on the 2nd December Street. Held under the theme of portraying the UAE history and the 1971 Union, the area was transformed into an art gallery of 16 colourful murals painted by 16 artists as part of Dubai Street Museum's initiative in 2016. Satwa is now covered with street art that showcases symbols of the country's heritage, including pearl diving and falcons to show the street's historical significance.
The moment you enter the Satwa street, you are pulled in further by the aroma of exotic street food that is served by a number of traditional as well as fast food cafés dotted along the road. While Al Mallah café on the 2nd December Street is known for its Arabic food, especially Shawarma and falafel sandwiches, the long-standing restaurant Ravi (that has been there for over 30 years) is known for lip-smacking Pakistani cuisine where even Europeans and Americans can be seen using their hands while eating.
Mohammed Siraj, who has been living in Satwa for over 20 years, said: "Satwa's central location is its strongest point. On one hand you have big malls and the financial hub with iconic buildings like the Dubai World Trade Centre, while on the other you have sprawling Jumeirah beach and the famous Jumeirah mosque. It has everything for everyone ranging from street food to fine dining, from textile shops to car accessories, from tailors to jewellery shops and even pet shops."
Siraj said that the only drawback of this area is parking issues. "This has grown so much over the past one year that I have to think twice before taking out my car and now I take a bus and then metro to work, in order to avoid this pain."
A shoppers' paradise, Satwa offers something for everyone. The area is also dotted with small groceries and shops selling fresh meat, fish, vegetables and fruits of the season. For plant lovers, there are rows of shops selling potted plants, seeds, gardening supplies and soil. It is also a great place for gold shopping, second hand clothes, shoes and bags, artworks, rugs, watches and even furniture.
Javed Ahmed, who along with his partners have been running a shop called Nujood Sweets in Satwa since 1980, said their shop was earlier a meat shop but with time and demand, they changed it to a sweet shop. The shop is now known for its sweets, snacks and rich Pakistani breakfast such as halwa poori. Not only does the small shop go packed but also most of its orders are home deliveries.   
 Salim, a waiter who has been working at Karachi Darbar for over 17 years, said: "The bonds build here while serving our customers are beautiful and strong. Nearly all our regular customers know me and there is a family kind of environment here. We are known for our Peshwari kadhai and mixed grill. I know what my customers will be ordering even before they place their order because of our bond and their regular visits. Satwa has its own charm that no other place can have. And that charm lies in the melting pot of cultures that you see here."
Reminiscing the old days, Malik Sahib Khan, who has been running a an electrical equipment shop in Satwa for over 40 years, said: "I liked the old Satwa, when it was less crowded and had less number of buildings. I came here in 1975 and there were no roads then. You could see the famous Iranian hospital of Satwa from my shop. There was scarcity of water in those times, so there were two tanks kept in this area and people would come to fill up clean drinking water from here. We had a meat market where twice a weak one could get fresh meat. For entertainment, there was an open air theatre called Satwa Cinema where they would play Bollywood movies."
Some notable features include the Iranian Hospital, Satwa Grand Mosque, the Islamic Information Centre, Al Satwa bus terminal and the popular Steel Mosque next to the bus stop. The Steel Mosque owes its name to the steel structure it is made up of, which makes it an intriguing structure. The simple and small mosque was built as a temporary structure when the Satwa Grand mosque was closed for some renovation work. However, the Steel Mosque soon gained popularity and continues to attract a lot of people even after the Satwa Grand mosque was re-opened.
saman@khaleejtimes.com