Australia's Wild, Wild West

The scenery observed motoring along the Northern Territory's Victoria Highway between Katherine (300km south of Darwin) and Western Australia might, at first, appear flat and monotonous. However, it is not long before you are engulfed in the beauty that rises up alongside the highway; ancient mountain ranges flanked with towering sandstone cliffs that glow pink, gold and then red as the day progresses.
This is the Victoria River Region, a rugged landscape that rivals anything else that the Northern Territory has to offer. The mighty Victoria River, 800 km long and 40 km wide at the mouth, weaves through a unique terrain. For the Aboriginal people of the area, it provided a hunter-gatherers' paradise, for the early explorers it was a highway for transportation, and for the cattle stations that followed, it was a lifeline.
Travellers motoring east-west or vice versa between Kununurra in West Australia and Katherine in the Northern Territory shouldn't miss the great opportunities to experience this little developed region in their hurry to cover kilometres. The Victoria River Region is rich in attractions and offers a taste of the old territory.
The history is as wild as it is west. In 1855, an expedition led by the explorer Augustus Gregory sailed up the Victoria River's treacherous waters, then set off into the unknown interior to assess the region's pastoral potential. Glowing reports of the finest grazing lands were sent back and the 'rush' for pastoral leases was on. What followed was possibly the most colourful Wild West era in Australian history with the development of some of the world's largest cattle stations.
This was a time when men were legends. It was when schooner and steamboat captains such as Joe Bradshaw battled the Victoria's tempestuous currents and whirlpools, often being stranded on mud banks for weeks to deliver provisions from Darwin. Colourful characters, such as Bert Drew 'the donkey king of the north', a contract carrier, worked teams of up to 74 donkeys pulling drays of 12 tonnes for stations such as Wave Hill and Victoria River Downs.
The roadhouse eatery and commercial camping grounds at Victoria River Crossing make for an excellent first stop and base to explore the eastern sector of the region. There are a number of lovely walks climbing the surrounding escarpments rewarding the energetic with panoramic views of the river and gorge, which are signposted from the highway.
About 1km west of town is the Victoria River access track, which leads down to an old river crossing. This site makes for an excellent bush and fishing camp. The spectacular roadside scenery continues to the small township Timber Creek, with the addition of the characteristic boab tree. This unusual tree, varying from a perfect bottle shape to a grotesque profusion of many stems, dot the land west of the Kimberley coast.
In 1906, a depot store was built on the banks of the Victoria River to receive provisions arriving by boat. This store soon became a haven for men scattered throughout the area. The annual meetings then became a major event attracting all kinds of characters: drovers, teamsters, cattle duffers and spielers, with recreational drinking sprees that lasted for days.
There is plenty to see and do around the town. Fishing is high on many people's prerogatives and there are plenty of local fishing charter operators who have helped people achieve their lifelong ambition of catching a big barramundi. The local museum housed in the original 1908 police station is another must, in addition to a river tour. Scenic flights are also available that follow the course of the Victoria River all the way to the Timor Sea.
Judbarra National Park (formely Gregory National Park) borders the Victoria Highway around Victoria River Crossing and again close to Timber Creek. At 10,500 square kilometres, it is the Territory's second largest national park after Kakadu, and offers a bounty of wonderful camping spots, fabulous walks and a unique insight into the region's wealth of Aboriginal and pastoral history.
The western sector of the park is famous for its challenging four-wheel drive (4WD) routes, the Bullita Stock Route and Humbert Track, although two-wheel drive (2WD) vehicles can get as far as the old Bullita Homestead on the Bullita track accessed from the Victoria Highway, 19 km east of Timber Creek. Road conditions can be checked at the Park Rangers Station in Timber Creek.
Today's explorers can wander through the now empty stockyards and visit the homestead. There are several lovely campsites to be found for both 2WD and 4WD vehicles at the nearby homestead campground alongside the pandanus-fringed East Baines River, where you can swim in the shallows of the crossing downstream.
Limestone Gorge, located 60km south of Timber Creek, is another lovely campsite. The campgrounds are surrounded by fluted and eroded limestone karst. The Limestone Creek runs close by, deep and clear and has been given the okay for swimming, but it is always advisable to check first.
There is a self-guided walk that climbs up and over the surrounding limestone escarpments and signboards, explaining the various uses of the surrounding vegetation for medicinal purposes. Further west, along the Victoria Highway and only 3km east of the West Australia border, is one of the region's greatest treasures - the Keep River National Park.
Red sandstone cliffs, huge boab trees and sweeping views add to the sense of wilderness in this isolated national park. The park provides visitors with excellent opportunities for bushwalking through magnificent gorge and escarpment scenery.
Photographers will love the spectacular Aboriginal art and Dreamtime landscapes. Birdwatchers can enjoy Cockatoo Lagoon, where water lilies appear suspended on the calm waters of the lagoon and numerous species of water birds congregate early morning and late afternoon. The Northern Territory's Victoria River Region may not be as famous, but it is every bit as impressive as the sights of Kakadu and Katherine Gorge.
wknd@khaleejtimes.com