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Feast on the flavours of Vaud

This mountainous district in western Switzerland is a real haven for food lovers

Ever nibbled on Alpine classics while enjoying spectacular mountaintop scenery? How about devouring a boardful of gooey cheeses at a local farm? Or dipping artisan bread into a bubbling pot of fondue?

In Vaud, a cantonment located in Southwestern Switzerland, the culinary possibilities are endless. The region - along with its capital city of Montreux - offers some of the most delicious and distinctive foods of Europe headlined by local ingredients, farm-sourced produce and fresh river fish. Inventive use of chocolate and cheese further burnish its credentials as a hub for culinary artistry.

Though neighbouring France has influenced many of its eating habits, Vaud's cuisine carries its own distinct style amplified by the collective brainpower of its talented chefs, many of whom are Michelin-anointed. Atmospheric eateries offer local specialities and melt-in-the-mouth desserts, usually with sweeping views over vineyards or Lake Geneva (also called Lac Leman).

During my visits to some of Montreux's eateries, affable chefs are only too happy to enlighten me about the city's culinary legacy, and the provenance of popular dishes and their ingredients.

"Fondue is traditionally made in a pot called caquelon, which is placed over a small flame," a local chef elaborates as I dip toasty, sesame-encrusted bread into a gooey pool of gruyere at his Lake Geneva-facing eatery.
As I reach out for raclette, another famous Swiss dish served with a side of pickled onions and gherkins, the chef explains that it comprises of melted cheese and potatoes. "The cheese used for the dish is also called raclette and is produced in large rounds, which are cut in half. The cut side is held over a stove, or a traditional raclonnette, until it melts," he adds. The melted cheese is then scraped from the surface (the French verb 'racler' means 'to scrape off'). The dish is then served with tiny potatoes, boiled and kept warm in a covered basket.

I'm informed that most of the popular Swiss dishes are, in fact, quite easy to rustle up. Almost instantly my mind flashes back to the region's pretty shops that sell fondue pots, forks and yummy cheeses. Visitors can carry these back to their own countries, not only as souvenirs but to cook uncomplicated Swiss dishes as well.
French-inspired Montreux is also famous for its meringues, the honey-sweet chewy confections in flavours as diverse as citrus, pistachio and chocolate. The chocoholic city has also perfected the art of crafting fine chocolates. Diehard chocolate lovers can hop onboard the Belle Epoque style 'Chocolate Train' that huffs and puffs its way up from Montreux to the Cailler-Nestlé chocolate factory at Broc. A stopover at the Grueyere Cheese Factory en route makes it a double delight for sure!

The popular Montreux Jazz Cafe that overlooks Lake Geneva is an ode to famous musicians (Aretha Franklin, Quincy Jones, Bob Marley and Freddie Mercury, to name a few) who frequented the city during its world-famous jazz festival held every July. Founded in 1967, it is the second largest annual jazz festival in the world after Canada's Montreal International Jazz Festival, lasts about two weeks and attracts a footfall of over 200,000 people.

The jazz cafe recreates the festival's spirited environment both in its dishes and decor. Some dishes are even named after celebrities; for instance, Spring chicken marinated "a la Quincy Jones"! Music memorabilia is displayed in an atmospheric setting; a jukebox here, a kimono given to Claude Nobs by Freddie Mercury there and, all over the walls, sepia-tinted photos of musical events that have made this restaurant a tourism destination over the years.

Bluche, a tiny Alpine village, is just a short funicular ride from the renowned ski resort of Crans-Montana near Montreux. With traditional wooden houses sprouting red geraniums in window boxes, and the Alps hunkering deep into blue skies and pine-scented air, this is pure cinematic terrain.

As if Bluche's clean air isn't enough, its residents and chefs also make prolific use of healthy organic fare and fresh river fish in their dishes. I sample a few of these dishes at Roots, a restaurant run by students of Les Roche Global Hospitality Education, located in the heart of the Swiss Alps. The eatery manifests its sustainable tourism philosophy by serving local, seasonal and ecological meals. My beautiful 'farm-to-table' lunch has products sourced from farms within 100km. The best part? It is all cooked by students, some as young as 17, under the supervision of their vigilant kitchen instructors.

There's smoked trout, crunchy veggies, and sour cream with herbs. The mushroom fricassee and oyster are offset with a smoked meat emulsion. The piece de resistance is the Lotschberg perch paired with baked potatoes and green juice. A symphony of flavours, really!

When I congratulate the students on the wonderful lunch, they spontaneously invite me for their next class at their 'Restaurant Lab', a place where they experiment with food and learn new culinary techniques. The topic for the day is how to ace the fine art of flambé (a type of cooking procedure). The class is conducted by the witty Executive Chef Frederic Angevin, who has us in splits with his anecdotes while we're aided by Service Instructor Ebru Macarrao.

Donning an apron, I sidle behind a workstation to flambé bananas. The hot pan is first glazed with butter and once it reaches a smoking point, I sprinkle some sugar on it till its grains caramelise to a rich, golden hue. The bananas are slipped in now and tossed and flipped till they are well-coated in the gooey mixture.
We enjoy the dish hot, straight off the pan as Chef Angevin regales us with more interesting anecdotes about the inner workings of kitchens where he'd worked previously - including some of the world's leading hotels. Soon its dinner time. We're told that the meal crafted by the students today is all about celebrating marine life harvested in a sustainable way. There are Jumbo Shots (tempura shrimp with avocado), Bum Bum Tartare (marinated salmon with basil and balsemic), Bacalhau Portuguesa (baked cod with punched potatoes and carrot mousse) and Paellotto (a shrimp paella and seafood risotto hybrid). As you can imagine, each morsel is a swirl of flavours!
wknd@khaleejtimes.com