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'It would be fun to cook for Trump and give him a new perspective through food': Maxime Le Van

The head chef of Via Veneto lets us into his kitchen secrets

Your favourite memory of food.
My life has been a succession of great food memories, so that's a difficult one. But I'd say the first time I ate an apricot off a tree as a kid - just because the memory of it will always stay with me as a food revelation. The effort I put into reaching it, and the reward of tasting such a beautiful product, was a world apart from what is found on shelves today. It won't be easy to describe how good that fruit was: still warm from the sun, very sweet and sour, full of flavours - it was like biting into the perfect jam.
What's the most challenging part of your job?
The biggest challenge in a restaurant is always going to be consistency, especially because I am personally very spontaneous in my cooking. I like to keep my food interesting, bringing constant subtle changes to enhance every dish I cook, so that poses a challenge to the brigade to keep up to date and cook to the expected standards.
Do you have a personal motto that drives the way you cook food?
I like to compose my dishes similar to a photograph. For me, it is a way to depict a strong memory or express a sense of place, time or emotion. I like my food to create a similar effect in diners, by transporting them to a certain place, feeling a special emotion, or bringing out some positive memories.
If you could cook for a high-profile personality, who would it be and what would you serve them?
I believe that food is one of the best ways to bring people together. On that note, it would be fun to cook for Donald Trump, and make him a great Mexican, Arabic or Korean meal. Maybe it would bring about in him a new perspective on others and their cultures.
How often do you eat out? Any favourite places around town?
I eat out maybe once a week. I usually go to different places each time, since Dubai has so much to offer; it means I don't really have a favourite place that I return to. As a great place I've dined at, I will pick Folly in Madinat - not only because I'm good friends with the chefs and the manager, but because I feel they have the best food and service in Dubai.
After cooking all day, do you cook for yourself at home too?
Yes, I do - not every day though, because it's not always easy with restaurant schedules. I love to cook simple things for myself. Also, when there is an occasion and the weather permits, I love organising big barbecues in my back garden.
You're asked to invent an unusual dish - what would it be?
Unusual is usual to me. I'm always creating things that are a little different from normal - it's what keeps diners interested. For example, we have the Vitello Tonnato; the classic dish is rather heavy and rustic, so I created a refined version, featuring a seared veal loin carpaccio dressed with lemon and olive oil, a lighter version of the beloved mayo, tuna and capers sauce and, as a garnish, I added home cured and confit tuna loin, crispy fried capers, thinly sliced cured egg yolk, topped with wild rocca leaves. Another favourite is our polpette; we classically serve it with beef meatballs, but have also made it the unusual way using fresh tuna instead of beef, seasoned with citrus zest, green olive, tomato and spices. It is stewed in a rich tomato and olive sauce, and topped with pine seeds and salted ricotta.
Who do you admire most in the culinary world, and why?
My idol has always been Alain Ducasse because he's all about highlighting the ingredients he uses without much dramatisation. Simple cooking at its best - yet he makes the world love his food. Now, that's the epitome of chefs!
Favourite comfort food?
Comfort food to me equals a huge plate of pasta with a freshly made sauce. I'm not a big eater, but I can go through 250 gm of pasta in one sitting and have no regrets whatsoever.
One ingredient/ dish you can't stand, and why.
There are so many natural ingredients available - and most at a reasonable price - so I don't understand the need for all those unhealthy, processed products out there.
If you could choose a last meal, what would it be?
It wouldn't matter what my last meal would be; the most important thing for me would be to have the people I love most enjoying that meal with me.
Your favourite culinary destination, and why?
My favourite culinary destination has, hands down, been Japan, because they set standards that are so high it's almost unbelievable. It is brute passion and their culture of perfection in everything they do ensures that you will always get amazing food, wherever you go.
- Staff reporter