Lost in Loket

Surrounded by River Ohre on three sides and dense forests on the other, Loket is connected to the rest of the world via a bridge over green waters. With a little over 3,000 inhabitants, this town gives you the impression of a period place - cobbled and uncluttered. If you need further reinforcement of this impression, let your eyes wander up to the Gothic Loket Castle rising out of River Ohre. It stands there, proud and unforgiving, carrying on its legacy from the 12th century into the present. If there is anything that screams medieval, it is this, the country's most impregnable castle, a favourite of history buffs.
Another thing that stands out is the absence of selfie-enthusiasts thronging the streets of Loket. In fact, one could go so far as to say that it is Czech Republic's best kept secret. Such is its historical value that the entire town centre is considered a national monument. Loket (meaning elbow in Czech) has been preserved from most modern developments. The quiet, narrow, winding cobbled streets and small squares give the feeling of being in another time, and the place is utterly charming. Traffic is light, although at noon, the entire town turns into a giant parking lot. There is a sense of peace in the unhurried way of life.
Loket Castle
I made my gruelling 60-second walk up the cobblestones to the entrance of the castle (although it might take you more time if you plan on stopping to admire the views), but it is totally worth the strain. As I walked in, I had mixed feelings about what I was going to find inside it. It did look spooky - and cold.
The moment I set foot inside Czech Republic's most impregnable castle, I began to understand something about Charles IV, the Father of Homeland and Holy Roman Emperor who spent his childhood here. It is said that his own father kept him imprisoned in the castle for three years, which may have played an important role in his future leadership skills.
Loket Castle is one of the oldest and most historical stone castles in the country. It formed a single, impenetrable defence system back in the day and was a favourite of the Luxembourg family. Centuries ago, it lured aristocrats and nobility; today, it attracts filmmakers and tourists.
With the exception of a few practical inclusions and attractions, it remains much as it was in the 12th century. So, you not only get the feel of an era long gone, but also the sense of belonging in the present. The castle is divided into nine different sections, each dedicated to different medieval artifacts.
All of it, including its dungeons and the torture chamber, are open to the public and the castle museum provides a lovely view of the town square and its surroundings.
Myths & meteorites
Due to my morbid curiosity, I headed straight for the torture chambers in the dungeon (frescoes, Romanesque toilets and the tower could wait). In the dark, I inched forward from one tiny chamber to the other, conscious of my heartbeat and shadows as I stared at gruesome representations of unimaginable medieval torture being played out in the dimly lit chambers. What made it real was the moaning, groaning and tortured sound effects throughout this exploration. And, add to that the agonised expressions on the faces of the 'people' (what looked like wax dummies) and you get the picture. To sum it up, it is a multi-sensory experience that leaves you shaken. At some point, after the drowning method of torture, I wished for sunlight. I also wished the sounds would stop.
I continued the exploration of the castle, going down into its depths via extremely narrow stone steps and sometimes using my phone to light the way. I was sure I was lost when I found myself staring at a large stone in a glass case that said The Meteorite. The locals call this the Cursed Meteorite of Loket (I'm not making this up!). It is, in fact, the oldest documented meteorite in the world (discovered in the 14th century). Of course, there couldn't have been a better place for it to find its home, and naturally its presence in the castle was fodder for interesting gossip. From alchemists who failed to melt it to a weak man who beat 100 strong men in pushing the 100kg mass, there are many stories about the meteorite that do the rounds. The Loket Meteorite also managed to disappear twice but always returned to the castle grounds mysteriously.
The original meteorite is said to have been shaped like the head of a horse but parts of it were chipped and sent to different universities and labs around the world for analysis - which agitated German writer and statesman Johann Wolfgang von Goethe who declared that chipping the meteorite was like cutting a child in half. Johann Wolfgang von Goethe spent considerable time in this small town, so his animosity has a reason. It was here that he celebrated his 74th birthday and proposed marriage to 19-year-old Ulrike von Levetzow (she refused).
The third mystery in the castle is that of the Loket Dragon which, legend has it, plagued the castle. According to the myths, once upon a time, women came to the dragon to 'borrow fire' to get their kitchen fires going!
Torture chambers, meteorites, an imprisoned ruler - Loket castle seems to be straight out of a fairytale, alright!
After my brush with this fairytale castle, I marched, undeterred, from one exhibition room to the other, admiring firearms, vases and other displays of porcelain, torture instruments and a Romanesque Rotunda before going up the tower for the finishing moment of the day - the views of Loket from above did not disappoint. One word describes it best: spectacular.
TG Masaryka Square (Town Centre)
At the Town Square is a chance to walk in the footsteps of none other than James Bond for a while as Loket stood in for Montenegro during the filming of the movie Casino Royale. Walk around town and you'll find the fountain where Daniel Craig parked his Aston Martin. Do not go looking for fancy cars here though, there aren't many.
In this square is one of the oldest hotels in Europe known as the Bily Kun (White Horse Hotel), built in the 16th century. From here, you get romantic views of the castle, St Wenceslas, the river and the mountains in the distance.
Other than a whole lot of history, Loket also has a Guinness Record for the largest collection of spa cups. Yes, you read that right! These are cups made from a special kind of porcelain which is used to drink thermal waters directly from the spring. Head to Pivovarska Prodejna (a big yellow building on your right as you enter
the town) to see the amazing display of these cups. This museum was founded in 1951 and has been expanded for over 67 years, spanning three generations. Currently, there are over 2,300 pieces of cups from the second half of the18th century on display!
Cafes and restaurants are many - grab a chair by the sidewalk and settle down for some quiet time. Your medieval experience doesn't get any more real than this.
HOW TO GET THERE
By train: Loket has two stations and both can be reached within 10 minutes from the town centre. Trains from Prague leave Praha hlavní nádrazí every 2-to-4 hours. The trip takes 3 hours 48 minutes and requires a transfer at Chodov. Regular fare is CZK 336.
By bus: From Karlovy Vary, there are regular buses taking 20 minutes and costing 20Kc.
Drive: From Prague, driving straight to Loket takes about 2 hours and 30 minutes.
WHAT TO DO THERE
Head down to Karlovy Vary to try its famous thermal waters. From Loket, you can even walk the 17km trail to Karlovy Vary if the mood strikes you.
As the town is surrounded by water, the river walks are long and lovely and the waterfront parks perfect for picnicking, playing, enjoying the sun, or just chilling out and doing nothing.
wknd@khaleejtimes.com