Restaurant review: SpiceKlub

A few weeks back, we had a gentleman write in, in response to a steakhouse review, and bemoan the lack of quality offerings available for pure vegetarians such as himself. This week's venue, sir, is definitely the place for you.
Most molecular gastronomy restaurants in the city are either associated with fancy big-name hotels or located in the swankier parts of town. SpiceKlub, however, is a standalone housed on Mankhool Road in Bur Dubai, right next to its sister restaurant, Quattro (which had, last year, received rave reviews from us too). But cast any typecasts based on location aside - because this is a fine dining space that can truly hold its own in Dubai.
The moment a restaurant takes on the 'molecular gastronomy' tag, you know it is out to impress. So, feel free to go with high expectations. From delicious chaats and four-cheese papads, to rasmalai and saffron mousse-stuffed chocolate flower pots, and even gluten-free rotis, you won't be disappointed. Every dish is designed to blow you away not just in taste, but in looks as well (they're all Instagram-worthy!). Even the non-vegetarians in our group were inclined to agree. The drinks too are inventive, from Mango on the Rocks to Masala Mojitos.
Side note: Listen to your servers. Like, when they tell you not to place the little Bubbling Kulfi rocks directly on your tongue, as this may cause them to freeze there. We're not saying we didn't listen - but they did warn us!

TASTE
Almost every dish is a winner, the flavours bursting in your mouth - especially those appetisers meant to be had in a single bite... Like a shot, quipped our server. The mains are good, but they're nowhere near as inventive as the starters or desserts.

AMBIENCE
The seats are grey, the walls are drab; how do they spruce up the place? With a riot of colours, of course. Bright kites, inventive bicycle tyre lanterns (!), and the most delightful wall mural. Throw in a couple of swing seats, and whoever picked this classy Indian decor nailed it.

SERVICE
A server with actual knowledge of the food and how to eat it, and a sense of humour? A rare breed. Ours offered excellent descriptions of preparation, but also knew to gently take our appetisers away, so we wouldn't overeat and be too full to enjoy the other dishes.

PRESENTATION
When it comes to molecular gastronomy, you can always expect presentation to get top score. Where else will you be served pav bhaji, fondue-style? Or kulfi, broken into tiny freezing rocks and served with an assortment of toppings? Expect some liquid nitrogen drama!

VALUE FOR MONEY
Sure, you may argue that many of the dishes on this menu, that are staples at Indian restaurants, can probably be had for less at other outlets (chaats, pav bhaji, etc). But for the amount of flair, ambience and innovation found here, it's plenty of bang for your buck.

Overall rating: 4/5

SpiceKlub, Mankhool Road, Bur Dubai, 04-3931233
Cost for 2: Dh150-200
karen@khaleejtimes.com

• Food and Dining