Restaurant review: Taipei Dao

Nestled amidst the glitz and glamour of Downtown Dubai is a cosy eatery that we happened to discover quite by accident. It happened while driving around the area, where we, quite predictably, took a wrong turn and promptly got lost (it's an understatement to say the roads can be a bit convoluted there). But, in the process, Taipei Dao was discovered, and I couldn't help but make a mental note to come back someday, just to leisurely explore the quaint-looking teahouse.
Fast forward a few months and my dining companion and I found ourselves seated within Taipei Dao, which roughly translates to 'The pathway to Taipei'. The interiors are cosy, with dark red wallpaper, warm golden lighting and a printed canvas stretching across the ceiling. A brighter red counter takes centre stage, and gives the traditional Taiwanese eatery a more modern feel. We opted to sit in one of their cosy booths, but do note that they seem to be built for those who are more vertically challenged. My dining companion, who is considerably taller than me, had a rather uncomfortable time trying to perch within.
The place gets busy, but that's not the only reason to make a reservation; if you have a table booking, you get some of their delightful complimentary detox water for an extra anti-oxidant kick. And speaking of anti-oxidants, one simply must sample their drinks. "Everything is tea for us," explains co-founder Felice Liao, and she's not lying. From bubble teas to matcha lattes, you'll find it all. We decided to get started with their Pomelo and Grape Fruit iced teas as we mulled over our options, and did not regret them one bit.
On Felice's suggestion, we decided to sample a dish popular on the streets of Taiwan - Cuttle Fish and Prawn Ball Soup. The soup was wonderfully light, its flavour subtle. A dumpling dish is customary, and their Jasmine Tea Chicken Shu Mai was fresh and flavoursome, although we had set our expectations pretty high at this point and it didn't blow our minds. What was astounding was their Chin Hsuan Tea Seafood Rolled in Tofu Skin. I've had fried dumplings before, but this is something special, the coating somehow both crunchy and flakey.
We had quite a hard time deciding mains - and let that be a testament to the sheer variety of options Taipei Dao has. But that's not the only unique thing about it; the restaurant is truly dedicated to keeping the body happy and healthy. Not only do they serve grass-fed beef and organic eggs, the restaurant does not use artificial food colouring, white rice, chicken powder, or - every health-conscious person's worst enemy - MSG, which is usually considered something of a staple in Taiwanese food.
Upon also learning that their noodles are handmade, I couldn't resist an order of fried noodles, brimming with seafood and veggies, as well as an order of their seafood and vegetable rice noodles. Now, Sweet and Sour Chicken is a dish that I usually avoid, as it's pretty much been done to death by any restaurant that offers a semblance of 'Chinese' on a multi-cuisine menu. But on Felice's recommendation, we ordered it anyway, and were glad we did. The flavours are richer so you feel like the dish is actually spicy, and subtly sweet. This is no ordinary ketchup and vinegar concoction, so if you do happen to stop by, and can order only one dish, let this be it.
Crispy Prawn with Chopped Garlic and Spring Onion is another Taiwanese favourite that we decided to try. With minimum ingredients like garlic, onion, a touch of vinegar and more chillies than we anticipated, this one is another surprising win. The prawns themselves are as fresh as they get.
After that hearty meal, the kind staff provided us with a sweet honey, rosemary and vinegar infused palate cleanser and it was a lovely way to cap off the meal.
Taipei Dao also has a bakery that's quite popular, but we were so stuffed at this point we couldn't even look at it. I have, however, set my mind on coming back just for the baked delights and varieties of tea (how delightful does that sound?). We settled instead on some red bean cake - but don't be fooled by the name. With the red bean filling mashed into a jam-like consistency and crispy coating, this is as far away from a cake as can be. Delicious and unique, nonetheless.
Dubai may be quite the multicultural hub, but good Taiwanese restaurants are few and far in between. Instead, it's all too likely to run into fusion restaurants, especially those of the Indo-Chinese variety. So when you find a restaurant dishing out authentic fare, be sure to hold onto it. Knowing that the food you're tucking into is also healthy is just another perk.
janice@khaleejtimes.com