Royal dining by the beach

If location is half the battle won, then Bombay Bungalow scores even before we walk through its doors. Situated right opposite the beach at JBR The Walk, the newly re-branded restaurant (it used to be called House of Curry) promises a hearty affair. The popularity of the place clearly hasn't waned since its repositioning; the cuisine may be Indian but the clientele is international. Arabs, Europeans and Asians were all tucking in merrily around us, even intermingling - when they weren't brandishing selfie sticks and (I presumed) checking in to Facebook Places.
The menu used to be 10 pages long, we're told, as we gratefully peruse the single sheet before us (we're not a fan of the indecisiveness that comes with being spoilt for choice!). But while the menu has been almost completely revamped, all the classic curries are still there. We started off with Guac Pani Poori, a couple of chaats (Corn & Sprouted Mung, and Calamari Bhel), and the Raita Tray (a fresh yoghurt dip prepared table side). Can I just say that while I've never liked Pani Poori, this one with its avocado salsa and spicy chilli tamarind dressing was top notch. Both chaats were addictive, and the calamari fritters were deliciously crunchy.
The Zaatar Paneer Tikka was served with a fantastic tahini beetroot dip, while the Burrata Butter Chicken was a great twist on an old classic. We mopped up the Cashew-Crusted Veg Kofta with cheese naans - an excellent recommendation. Dessert was the icing on the cake, but took us by surprise, when the Coconut Rasmalai won over the Chocolate Cheesecake that contained... a gulab jamun inside!

TASTE
Top marks to the chefs here. We almost couldn't fault anything we ate. The food retains its rich flavours, yet is lighter on the stomach than we expected it to be. Definitely a lot of creativity on the menu (as you'll gather from the Pav Bhaji Fondue) - but the classics stay true to taste.

AMBIENCE
The idea is 'vintage meets contemporary'. You see the former in the 'old' paintings, radio and telephone sets, and ornate doors. You see the latter in the tableware and... the 'bicycle sinks' in the washroom. Absolutely loved sitting under the huge tree in the middle!

SERVICE
Dishes were cleared and glasses topped up as soon as they were empty. I also really liked how 'savvy' our server seemed to be: for the raita tray that was prepared at our table, he offered to do so "opposite us", in case we wanted to shoot a video for our social media feeds!

PRESENTATION
If you're the kind of person that eats with your eyes, you won't be disappointed at BB. Much attention is paid to detail here. The food is colourful and wonderfully pleasing to both eye and palate. Makes you want to dig right in!

VALUE FOR MONEY
It's the kind of place you'd go to for a special occasion. Can't complain about the portions either - they're pretty filling. Considering the lovely location and sumptuous food that doesn't let you down, you'll find you're getting plenty of bang for your buck.

Location: Bombay Bungalow, The Beach Mall, JBR The Walk, Dubai
For reservations: 800-6928779
Cost for two: Dh300 (approx.)
Rating: 4/5
karen@khaleejtimes.com

• Food and Dining