'Spain is like a foodie fairground'

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Spain is like a foodie fairground

Nick Alvis, co-founder of Folly by Nick & Scott, has some quirky flavour combinations up his sleeve

by

Karen Ann Monsy

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Published: Fri 25 Aug 2017, 12:00 AM

Last updated: Fri 25 Aug 2017, 2:00 AM

Your favourite memory of food.
When I was very young, we had a huge garden full of different fruits and vegetables and were surrounded by farms and fields. Learning about the seasonality of food came to me at a very early age, and is one of my favourite food memories.

What's the most challenging part of your job?
I think that being where we are, geographically, is a huge challenge when it comes to produce - not because of the availability, as we can get pretty much anything we want from our suppliers, but because of the price you have to pay and the large quantity you have to commit to for things to get to your kitchen. We focus on quality rather than quantity, so would prefer to get a smaller, fresher, regular delivery. Also, as a small independent restaurant, having to buy large amounts of any ingredient really does take a toll, especially when you want to try out new dishes. Many kitchens here in Dubai are part of hotels so they have the space to store large quantities and can easily absorb the cost, but with us, it's totally the opposite. And then, of course, there are the summer months, which are always a challenge.

Do you have a personal mantra or motto that drives the way you cook food?
A fair few, actually. Always taste and never assume that food is seasoned correctly. Fresh is best, and always try to lead by example. I think the team gets a little fed up of hearing my mantras and mottos every day.

If you could cook for a high-profile personality, who would it be and what would you serve them?
I've been fortunate enough to have cooked for several high-profile people over the years, especially in my London and Paris days. We've also had some big-name chefs dine at Folly, which is a huge compliment. But to choose someone I'd like to cook for. I'd say it would be Thierry Henry, and instead of actually cook, I would arrange a huge selection of breads, cheeses, charcuterie, fresh tomatoes, pickles etc, and join him to discuss those memorable Arsenal victories and the possibility of him becoming the next Arsenal manager.

Who do you admire most in the culinary world, and why?
The three-star legends of past and present: Nico Ladenis and Marco Pierre White (in their day), and the likes of Joel Robuchon and Alain Ducasse, who continue to dominate the restaurant scene worldwide. Truly inspirational people.

How often do you eat out? What's your favourite place around town?
I don't eat out as much as I would like to but my current favourite is Couqley and their snails in garlic butter with a basket of bread. A very relaxed neighbourhood-style place that we need more of here in Dubai.

After cooking all day, do you cook for yourself at home too? 
I like to cook at home in my time away from the restaurant, but not always. I try to eat healthy but not at the cost of flavour. All food must taste good, so that generally means something a little naughty, like cheese and olive oil croutons in a salad, or quinoa with soy-braised chicken thighs and fried onions.

You're asked to invent an unusual dish - what would it be?
We've just been working on jasmine rice purée with yeast extract and courgettes, finished with marmite-coated Job's tears (which is a type of millet grain). A little different, but received positively by all who've had it so far!

Favourite comfort food?
Our freshly baked sourdough and salted butter at Folly. Can't beat it!

One ingredient/ dish you can't stand, and why.
Poached salmon or tinned tuna. As a commis chef in my first-ever job, I remember seeing pieces of salmon floating around in a plastic bucket and thinking how can anyone want to eat that? As for the tuna, I just can't believe something that is so beautiful when it's fresh can be turned into what it becomes when tinned - it's the polar opposite.

If you could choose a last meal, what would it be?
Roast rib of beef, with fresh vegetables, steaming Yorkshire pudding, roast potatoes, loads of horseradish cream and rich beef gravy. Delicious!

Your favourite culinary destination, and why?
Spain is currently my favourite, as it is so diverse with its regions and climates. They have everything imaginable: food markets, street treats, pintxos, and so many types of high-end restaurants. It all feels right there for some reason. It really is a foodie fairground.
- Staff reporter


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