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The rise and rise of men's fashion

A guy friend, who is well into his 40s, recently asked me for a fashion tip. Even though I have been writing on the subject for 20 years now and even worked for a men's magazine in India, I couldn't help but wonder what could possibly be more boring than a suit, the clothing item my friend needed help with. It was then that I decided to turn to an expert, Stefano Gaudioso Tramonte, for some advice. Stefano is the creative director of Corneliani, an Italian brand known for its savoir faire in men's suits since 1950s. Having previously worked with Ermenegildo Zegna and Pal Zileri, Stefano surely knows his suits. For Corneliani, he says, suits make up 50 per cent of their business. Given that it's been about two decades since 'Casual Fridays' first made informal clothing acceptable at workplace, I thought men would have a more casual approach to fashion.
What I remember from my days as fashion editor of a men's magazine is that the 'cut' is the most important aspect in men's suits. The Italian cut, which tends to be very fitted, has a jacket with double vent, the American cut has a more relaxed feel while the British cut is a mix of both. "That's so old school. Today, men want to have fun with their fashion, which is why most of them opt for made-to-measure suits," explains Stefano.
You can have buttonholes hand-stitched in a special colour, a secret pocket or your initials sewn under the collar or in the lining. At Corneliani, a made-to-measure suit involves 150 steps that includes 27 handmade phases with over 750 weaves and fabrics to choose from - in a nutshell, you're talking about a real combination of craftsmanship with cutting-edge style. The truth is men's fashion has never had it better. Recently, heritage French brand CÉLINE, known for its chic minimalism, announced that it is launching a menswear line, while the fashion girl's label of the moment, Jacquemus, makes its menswear debut next month. "Do you know that in China, there are menswear-only malls?" Stefano tells me. It seems men's fashion is having a moment. The market research firm Euromonitor has projected that the global men's fashion market will reach $33 billion by 2020, witnessing a 15 per cent growth in five years. "Men are finally having fun with fashion. Streetwear is now a part of luxury and it has changed how we approach the suit," says Stefano. Team up your suit with sneakers, forget the tie and shirt, opt instead for a zipped sweatshirt.
The gilet replaces the very old-fashioned waistcoat as an extra element, if you want one. It's about being unique and not following the crowd; be it colour or cut, it is made for you. That is why men want a look that is theirs, that speaks of their style and personality. Just the way women want to show off their style, men want to flaunt theirs too. So, whether it is accessories, shoes or even a suit - there are no rules. Perhaps it's time I reacquainted myself with men's clothing.
sujata@khaleejtimes.com