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Voting for vegan

A new menu at SpiceKlub in Mankhool puts paid to any notions of taste being compromised when you do away with all animal products

Sometimes - just sometimes - being proven wrong is the best thing in the world. Regular readers of this mag may well be familiar with my journey into almost-total-vegetarianism by now. To go the veg route is one thing - but to go vegan? I'd be lying if I said my (heartily non-vegetarian) partner and I weren't more than a tad apprehensive about trying a menu we weren't so sure would tick the 'taste' box. Allow me to say then: it was a pleasure to be firmly disabused of any notions of vegan food equalling 'bland stuff', courtesy a trip to SpiceKlub in Mankhool, Bur Dubai.
The restaurant fills up rather quickly for a weekday evening. Expect to see smartphones and cameras constantly out in this place. And when the food finally starts coming out: you'll know why - these guys sure love to put on a gastronomic show.
We loved that going vegan didn't mean giving up some of our favourite classics. There were piping hot Corn Tikkis, Hara Bhara Kebabs, and Deconstructed Dhoklas (which tasted not unlike the South Indian breakfast favourite, upma). We weren't expecting too much from the mains, having been to the restaurant before and knowing its forte lay in their starters, drinks and desserts. Surprise, surprise - everything from their Gluten-Free/Makka Ki Rotis to their Veg Tawa Masala and Baingan Bharta did not disappoint. Sealing the deal was the only dessert on the menu: the Vermicelli Kheer, topped with whipped cream - and it outdid the non-vegan Volcano chocolate mousse! We'd been shown our place - and we didn't mind. Not one bit.
Taste: Save for a couple of dishes that didn't make too much of an impression, it was difficult to fault any of the other dishes on the menu. You run the risk of overdosing on pani puri. Even the Dal Kabila and Fried Onion Corn Peas Pulao were delicious. The Vermicelli Kheer took the cake.
Ambience: I suspect SpiceKlub's interiors can be a real pick-me-up. It would be difficult to be moody in such a bright and colourful space. The industrial piping overhead is painted burnished orange; bulbs hang from bicycle wheels, and the walls are a kaleidoscope of colours.
Service: "Kenit will be your server, and I, Suresh, will be captain of your table." There's an intro that's bound to raise amused brows. We enjoyed the friendly, attentive service of the staff - and how social media-friendly and happy-to-be-on-camera they all were.
Presentation: Despite knowing it was 'one of those' molecular gastronomy places, we were still fairly taken by the gimmickry that preceded our tucking in. Smoking drinks and dhoklas, sauces in syringes, chutneys in test tubes - you can't deny these guys have got pizazz!
Value for money: Starters start at Dh32; mains can be had for Dh35-42, and dessert is Dh46. Considering you'll be hard-pressed to find restaurants offering molecular gastronomy in the heart of old Dubai - feel free to let us know if we're wrong! - I'd say fair's fair.
AT A GLANCE
SpiceKlub, Opposite Aster Hospital, near Sharaf DG, Kuwait Street, Mankhool, Dubai
Reservations: 04-4489590
Cost for two: Dh200 (approx.)
Overall rating: 4/5
karen@khaleejtimes.com