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Restaurant review: The dynasty rules

Every Friday evening, CuiSines at the Ramada Jumeirah brings back tastes from Dynasty - the hugely-popular restaurant at the now-closed Ramada Bur Dubai. Sushmita Bose revels in nostalgia

When the Ramada on Mankhool Road closed down in August 2016, I was deeply saddened. In September 2008, when I moved to Dubai, I had spent a month there; it was home for me when I was trying to find my feet in a new city. It was one reason why I chose to "settle down" in Mankhool/Bur Dubai for good. One of the signposts of that hotel used to be its Chinese restaurant, Dynasty. It was the first 'fine dining' restaurant I visited in Dubai, with a friend from Delhi, and spent an enchanted evening at.
Last year, another Ramada property - the Ramada Jumeirah, on Al Mina Road - decided to do something about the still-enduring loyalty that Dynasty evinces. Its restaurant CuiSines holds Dynasty Nights every Friday, starting 6.30pm. Food from the old favourite is served to grateful patrons, who can take a gastronomical trip back in time.
When I visit CuiSines to savour Dynasty Nights' offerings, I'm told by the affable Chef Gaurang that the buffet spread continues to be "inspired" by 'Indian-Chinese' from Mumbai and Kolkata, but there are some street-food twists now. The food, expectedly, brought back a rush of memories.
Long live (the) Dynasty.
Taste
If you are looking for wholesome Indian-Chinese, this is great! The Chinese bhel - made with fried noodles and dressed like regular bhel puri - is lip-smacking. The fried rice and chilli chicken were light and flavourful. The slightly greasy vegetarian noodles were slick and tasty.
Ambience
CuiSines has a very different setting from the original Dynasty. For one, it's much more casual. For another, it's very clear that at other times, it's a multi-cuisine restaurant. Having said that, there are token 'Chinese' signages and props to lend some "feel" to the place.
Service
The friendly staff is ever-so-keen to get you acquainted with the history of Dynasty Nights, and why it came into being. Chef Gaurang is only too happy to talk about his cooking techniques, while the others keep an eye out for you - even though it's a 'help yourself' buffet.
Presentation
This is a buffet, so no top marks for presentation. The best way you can describe it is that it's fuss-free, but great care has been taken to ensure nothing comes in the way of the dining experience. Food is laid out cleanly, and the live kitchen adds to the pop.
Value for money
Even if you aren't a die-hard loyalist of Dynasty (and, therefore, willing to shell out the extra wad of notes), you'll be gobsmacked at how affordable this buffet is. Dh99 per head, inclusive of soft beverages, is a steal. Come with a big appetite to do justice.
Fact box
CuiSines, 'Dynasty Nights', Ramada Jumeirah, Al Mina Road, Dubai
For reservations: 04-7027020
Buffet spread, per head: Dh99
Overall rating: 4/5
sushmita@khaleejtimes.com